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A TRIP TO 



MlgWlFOUMBE^AKflD) 



tcntri) ;uiii Jfisjjcrics; 



AN ACCOUNT OF THE LAYING OF 



THE SUBMARINE TELEGRAPH CABLE, 



BY JOHN M C L L A L Y , 
La 



ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTY KNGRAVINCJS, 
FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS BY R, C iHTClICOCK. 



NEW YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY T. W. STRONG 

98 NASSAU STREET. 
1855. 




'^.•^.vt. 






,\K" 



Entkred according to Act of Congres.s in the year 1855, 

BY T . AV. STRONG, 

In the Clerk's OfiBce of the District Court of llie Utiited States, for the Southern 

District of New York. 



ViNoitHT L. Dili,, Kteraotyper, Al)EE, Printer, 

1J8 Fullon Street. New York. 213 & 215 Centre Street. 





^ ten o'clock ijrecisely on the morning 
^ of the Tth of August, 1855, the steamer 
James Adger left her pier. No. 4 North 
River, with a large number of passen- 
gers on board. Now as she had been in the habit of doing this at least 
once every two weeks, there might appear, after all, to be nothing extra- 
ordinary in the fact of her doing so on the day in question, and still less 
might there appear any necessity for stating that fact. But there was 
something in the circumstances coimected with her departure on that 



4 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

occasion which we think will justify us in recording it, and presenting to 
the American public a simple, brief and unpretending narrative of her 
voyage, and the objects and incidents of the mission on which she was 
employed. 

There are very few who have not heard of that grand achievement 
of human genius, the electric telegraph, and of the wonderful things that 
have been accomplished through its agency ; — how distant lands have been 
brought into close connection ; how people separated by thousands of miles 
have been enabled through it to communicate their thoughts to each other 
almost with the same rapidity as they could express them ; how it has 
annihilated time and space, and how in connection with the steam engine, 
and the printing press it is silently and slowly, but sm'ely performing its 
part in working out the civilization and progress of mankind. Twenty 
years ago people when they heard what would now be considered the hum- 
ble claims it made to public notice treated them with ridicule, for they 
could not conceive it possible for an invisible, impalpable body, more subtle 
than the ah' we breathe, to carry messages with the speed of the light- 
ning itself over a distance of a thousand miles. Where now is the skepti- 
cism with which it was received, and where the unbeliever who has not 
been converted from his infidelity ? Not more than eleven years have 
passed since the first electric telegraph was established between Baltimore 
and Washington, and now our country is intersected by a perfect net-work 
of wires extending over a distance of forty-two thousand miles. But this 
is not all, for if we direct our attention to Europe, we will find that there 
are more than thirty thousand miles of it in operation on that continent, 
making altogether for the Old and the New Worlds a total of over seventy 
thousand miles. 

But while the success of the telegraph on the land was fully estab- 
lished, the water appeared to present an insuperable barrier against its 



ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 5 

universal dominion. Every atterajit to manufacture a wire which would 
operate in that element with the same facility as on the land had failed, 
and the most sanguine began to despair. It was necessary to insulate it 
with some material which would protect it completely from the water 
and which at the same time would not interfere with the passage of the 
electric current. Every thing that human ingenuity could think of was 
tried, and after several years of unavailing effort, the idea was al^andoned. 
It was in this emergency that the invaluable properties of gutta percha 
were discovered and applied with perfect success in its manufacture, and 
in the year 1851 the first Submarine Telegraphic Cable was laid down 
between the Straits of Dover and Calais, a distance of twenty-four miles. 
This was shortly followed by others, connecting England with the conti- 
nent ; and, as we have seen, during the present war the Black Sea has 
been crossed with a cable three hundred and seventy-four miles long, while 
another will soon be laid across the Mediterranean uniting the opposite 
shores of Europe and Africa. 

All these, gigantic as they may appear, sink into insignificance, how- 
ever, compared with that grandest of all projects and enterprizes, the union 
of the Old world with the New. It has been said that human genius^ 
knows no limits, and, in the contemplation of this, the most unbelieving 
must admit that it certainly is not easily discouraged by obstacles. Who, 
looking at the aggregate results of science, will say that it is impossible, 
and that the great globe itself will not one day be girdled by a telegraphic 
belt along which thouglit shall pass with a speed defying calculation. Ob- 
jections it is true have been urged against its practicability ; but what 
great enterprize was ever yet conceived that did not meet with the opposi- 
tion of those who are always ready to combat every new principle, either 
in the social, the political or scientific world. 

It is not our intention, however, to answer those objections ; the sub- 



6 ATRIPTONEWFOUNDLAND. 

ject has been argued long enough, and the controversy can only he termi- 
nated by the successful issue of the project. Meanwhile it may be well for 
us to state here, that it has already received not only the countenance, 
but the active support of some of the most practical men in the United 
States, France and England, and tliat ten millions of their capital have 
been invested in the enterprize. The Transatlantic Submarine Telegraph 
Company have bound themselves by the terms of their charter to have a 
cable laid between Europe and America, in the year 1858, and this cal)lc 
having its terminus on the eastern shore of Newfoundland, will be con- 
nected with a land line extending along tlie whole southern coast of that 
Island, to a point on Cape Ray at its southwestern extremity, at which 
point another will be laid across the entrance of the Gulf of St. Law- 
rence to Cape Breton. A capital of fifteen hundred thousand dollars is 
embarked in the laying of the line on the American side, that is, across 
Newfoundland, the Gulf, Cape Breton and Prince Edward's Island to 
New Brunswick, and this, it is expected, will be completed and in success- 
ful operation in the Fall of 1856. The capital is in the hands of another 
Association entitled, the New York, Newfoundland and London Telegraph 
Company.* 

The laying of the cable across the Gulf, perhaps the most import- 
ant part of the whole enterprize, should have been accomplished in 
August, 1855, but for a most unfortunate accident, or rather series of 
accidents, which have postponed the work for another year. The steamer 
James Adger was engaged to tow the cable-ship Sarah L. Bryant, from 
Cape Ray to Cape Breton, and it was for this purpose that she left New 
i^ork on the day stated in the beginning of the chapter. It was intended 
by the Company that the voyage should be one of pleasure as well as 

* A complete history of the enterprize ■will be fonnd in the appendix. 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 




SCKNE ON BOARD THE JAMES ADGER. 

business, and they accordingly invited a large party of their friends to 
whom we shall, without further ceremony, introduce our readers :— 

Peter Cooper, Mrs. Cooper, Professor S. F. B. Morse, Mrs. Morse, 
Master A. B. Morse, Cyrus W. Field, James S. Sluyter, Robert W. Low- 
ber, Mrs. R. W. Lowber, Miss Ann Redfield, Rev. Gardner Spring, Rev. 
D. D. Field, Rev. H. M. Field, Mrs. H. M. Field, Miss Gracie Field, Miss 
Alice Field, Miss Allen L. Herndon, Dr. Lewis A. Sayre, Mrs. Lewis A. 
Sayre, David A. Sayre, Wm. M. Swain, Master W. J. Swain, John Thorn- 
ley, Prof. F. Sheppard, Bayard Taylor, Miss Lizzie Alger, John Conger, 



3 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Rev. J. M. Sherwood, Mrs. Aim Palmer, Mrs. Edward D. Jones, Miss 
Mary Sterns, Marshall Brewer, F. N. Gisbourne, Chas. T. Middlebrook, 
John MuUaly, T. W. Strong, D. C. Hitchcock, S. A. Richards, B. F. Ely, 
H. W. Barron, Geo. H. Brown, A. A. Raven, F. O'Brien, F. H. Palmer, 
J. P. Palmer, Chas. J. Smith, Dr. P. A. Briiyere, John G. Kip, Chas. H. 
Houghton, J, W. Kennedy, Francis Winton, L. P. Palmer, Joseph Jones, 
Miss Cooper, Robert Russell. 

The weather on the morning of which we have spoken was all that 
could be desired ; the sun shone out in an almost cloudless sky, and the 
light breeze that rippled the surface of the water served only to moderate 
the intensity of the summer's heat. Everything seemed to favor tRe 
enterprize, and the crowd that thronged the deck of the steamer were 
buoyant with bright and hopeful anticipations of the future. There was 
an nnusual bustle on Pier No. 4, North River, that morning, carriages 
came dashing down with heavy luggage and light-hearted passengers ; 
every body was in every body else's way ; people stood upon each other's 
toes and, strange to say, smiled good humoredly ; porters with atlantean 
shoulders carried off trunks and portmanteaux of all imaginable shapes 
and sizes, and deposited them in the most out of the way places ; news- 
boys were eagerly soliciting customers for the morning papers ; vend- 
ers of light literature w^ere loud in their praises of " the Blood red 
Avenger," " The desperate Burglar, or the Miser's Fate," " The Bandit's 
Cave, or the Robber's Oath," and a host of other works equally taking 
and terrible ; friends congratulated friends, and wished each other a happy 
voyage and a safe return ; scientific men looked graver and more import- 
ant than ever, and pronounced their opinion for the hundredth time how 
" that cable " should be laid ; and loud above the din and bustle and 
confusion rose the shrill whistle of the steam-pipe, announcing that the 
moment of departure was near. 



A TRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 9 

" Let go that liauser there," sliouted several of the hands as they 
made ready to start, and the passengers, who had till this time been in 
complete possession of the deck, at once gave way. Then there was a 
general shaking of hands, " a hurrying to and fro," the last passenger 
arrived on board after losing his hat and cane in his desperate struggle to 
be in time, the last rope was unfastened, the steam whistle gave out its 
last w'arning note, every body was told for the last time to " look out," 
and the James Adger commenced slowly moving out into the river. Three 
hearty cheers greeted her as she swung loose from the pier, and were 
repeated again and again as we swept past. A salute of three guns was 
fired from her bow, which w^as responded to by another from one of 
Spofford & Tileston's Steamers, and the United States Frigate, Potomac, 
honored the company and the enterprize in which they were engaged, as 
far as the strict rules of the Navy allowed, by running up the Stars and 
Stripes to her peak. Again and again we were cheered by our friends 
who crowded the end of the pier, until only the faint echo of their voices 
could be heard, and again and again we responded with a rivalry of friend- 
ship that was determined not be outdone. 

We were soon under full headway down the bay, and in a few minutes 
our friends became indistinguishable in the lengthening distance. The last 
we saw of them was through a telescope, and there they still stood at the 
end of the pier waving their adieus. Gradually we lost sight of the large 
public buildings, and then the city itself began to disappear below the 
horizon. And now we have left Staten Island behind us, and sweeping 
past jSTevisink are out on the open sea. 

. Our first night on the water was marked by a grand display of celes- 
tial pyrotechnics that illuminated the whole heavens, and converted the 
liquid element through which we ploughed our way into an ocean of fire. 
It appeared as if the powers of the air had determined to signalize our 



10 A T R I P T O X K W F O U N D I, AND. 

mission, and they did so in a peculiarly appropriate manner. The scene 
was one of those which could never be forgotten. During the evening an 
electric machine was brought upon the upper deck and it was there when 
the night set in. Beside it sat Professor Morse, its inventor, who had 
been explaining the principle of its construction to the company but a few 
hours before. Here and there were little groups, some on the bow, some 
on the wheel-house, and others scattered about the deck enjoying them- 
selves in pleasant social intercourse. The sweet music of woman's voice 
singing some favorite melody gave a new attraction to the scene. At 
first the lightning flashed in broad sheets along the horizon, then rapidly 
extending towards the zenith it lit up the sky with an almost dazzling bril- 
liancy. From behind the dense heavy masses of black clouds that hung 
on the ocean's verge were flung, as if by unseen hands, huge balls of fire 
that left a track of flame to mark their course along the heavens. At 
intervals gigantic fiery serpents darted from their place of ambush, writh- 
ing and twisting in their tortuous way through the ebon vault above, and 
then again all was dark as midnight. Gradually the clouds spread over 
the sky shutting out the pale and twinkling light of the stars, and 
the flashes of lightning became more vivid and more frequent until the 
whole heavens was one mass of flame. For two hours did we gaze on 
this magnificent spectacle, until the heavy drops of rain warned us of the 
coming storm and drove us unwillingly to seek shelter from its fury. 

That night we had a concert in the after cabin at which every body 
was present, and in which all who had voice for music and some who had 
not, joined. Some of the best airs from Robert Le Diable and other 
popular operas, were sung with the most exquisite taste by one of our 
lady passengers, and then, to give variety to the entertainment, we had 
the clioicest selection from Negro Minstrelsy. " Robert toi que j'aime," 
was followed by the " Dandy Broadway Swell," and " The Colored Fancy 



A TRIP TO NEWFOl-NDLAND. 



II 




8ANBR0 LIGHT OFF HALIFAX. 

Ball," shared the applause with " Come per me Sereno." The sailor's 
farewell to his lady-love was sung by a votary of the comic muse, and 
although evidently a pathetic subject, and one in which the aforesaid fair 
one and her " galliant '' lover claimed the sympathy of the hearers, the 
tale of their distress was heard with the most unfeeling indifference, and 
the end of each verse was the signal for an outburst of laughter. This 
from a company, too, that should have known better was as Dogberry 
says, " most tolerable and not to be endured." There was one portion 
of the song which in justice to the composer we must quote, as it is in 
its way a perfect gem, and will serve to show the reader at a glance 
the sad plight of the lovers : 

" Wliile j-ou are on j-our slientle bed ashleepin' fast ashleep, 
Zen we poor jolly sailor's are ploughing on ze zeep." 



The reader will perceive from this that the song is slightly foreign, 
and that " the Sweet German accent " is one of its most attractive fea- 
tures. 

But the concert like all other sublunary things had an end, and all 



12 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

retired for the night to dream over the pleasing scenes and incidents of 
the day. The strains of music gradually died away, the merry laughter 
of the gay and light-hearted company was hushed, and the only sounds 
that broke the stillness of the night were the monotonous dash of the 
waves and the ceaseless din and clangor of the mighty machinery. 




VIEW OF HALIFAX FROM THE FORT. 




CHAPTER II. 

iri^IElf 0116 ou board was up early on the morning of the 
second day of our voyage, and as all, or nearly all, had escaped 
the sea-sickness, we were in excellent spirits. The air was fresh 
and bracing, and if the thermometer had been examined it would 
have been found ten or fifteen degrees nearer zero than on the previous 
day. We had passed Long Island during the night, and were now steam- 
ing at a rate of ten knots an hour through the Sound, which runs between 
Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard. The whole company were on deck 
enjoying the prospect and on the qui five for every thing that was novel 



14 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

or exciting. One young gentleman who had evidently been under the 
impressiou that he was somewhere near the tropics, made his appearance 
in the purest kind of white, but after a few minutes exposure to the cool 
sea air he was compelled to beat a hasty retreat, and when next he came 
on deck he was an altered man. The excitement created by the gentle- 
man in white, however, soon passed over and every body was looking out 
for the next new wonder, when suddenly our ears were greeted with a 
well known sound that made us doubt whether we were really on the open 
sea and not in the streets of New York. At first we would not trust our 
senses, but after listening for a moment we were assured of the reality. 
There was no mistaking it — that energetic and enterprizing specimen of 
humanity, that indispensable member of society, that juvenile representa- 
tive of Xew York Democracy, the city newsboy, was in our midst selling 
the morning papers. 

" Here we are — got the last news from Europe — have a copy sir ? " 
And there to our surprise stood one of our fellow passengers with a huge 
bundle of papers under his arm and surrounded by a crowd of eager 
applicants. 

" Only twenty-five cents a copy, gentlemen — ladies half price. Out 
witli your money, no time to be lost — got to be off." 

Many were at a loss to know where he was going to, and in their 
earnest inquiries forgot to pay him. 

" Now then," he said, " turning a deaf ear to their questions — " now 
I have got only one copy left and as it contains the very latest news, I 
must have a good price for it." 

" Put it up at auction," said one " that we may all have a fair 
chance." This proposition was received with unanimous approval, and 
the paper was accordingly put up previous to being knocked down to 
the hio^hest bidder. 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 15 

" Now then ladies and gentlemen let us begin — no time to be lost," 
said the newsboy, assuming at once all the airs of an auctioneer. " How 
much is bid — how much — how much ? " 

" Half-a-dollar," said the first bidder. 

" Half-a-dollar it is," repeated the auctioneer, " half-a-dollar — af-af- 
af a dollar — af a doll-doll-dollar — who bids more. Seyenty-five cents 
did I hear — I'm certain I did, if my ears did not deceive my eyesight. 
That's it gentlemen, I'm glad to see such liberality towards the daily press, 
it is one of our great institutions and should be well supported. The 
daily newspaper, gentlemen, " he continued is an indispensable institution — 
that means it can't be done without — ^it is the palladium of our liberties 
and must be supported by every lover of his country. How much do you 
bid for the paper — how much for the paper, how much. — I certainly heard 
a bid — a dollar it was— it ivas a dollar, I was not mistaken. Who said 
it was not worth a cent ? " 

" It's an old paper — nothing in it," said one of the crowd. 

" Nothing in it, nothing in it," he indignantly replied, spreading out 
the paper to its fullest extent. " Did you hear that gentlemen — did you 
hear that. None so blind as those who won't see. I will make you or 
any other gentlemen a present of it," he continued, " if you'll read it all 
through without stopping." 

It is almost needless to say that this liberal offer was not accepted, 
and the auctioneer went on to sell his paper without further interruption. 
He finally ran it up to a thousand dollars for which he received a check 
on one of the Banks of Newfoundland which was to be paid on presenta- 
tion — with a hook. 

Just as our friend got through with his last paper eight o'clock was 
struck by the shii)'s bell, and immediately after we were summoned to 
breakfast by the steward. The attendance in newspaper phraseology 



16 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

" was very numerous and the deepest interest was manifested in the pro- 
ceedings"- — every individual present felt that he had "a stake" in the 
affair, which might be materially damaged by his absence. All were in 
favor of action and all felt that on that occasion silence was mighty but 
language was weak, — in fact such was the impression made upon them that 
they were soon " too full for words." Some very good things were said 
however, and every one was both pointed and cutting in their treatment 
of the matter under discussion. In due time when all were satisfied that 
it had received full justice, several motions were made — to the door, and 
soon after the whole company adjourned. 

The remainder of the day was spent in various ways, as individual 
taste and feeling prompted — some read the papers and some didn't ; 
others amused themselves in looking at the whales which were spouting 
like temperance orators ; others again performed astounding gymnastic 
feats among the rigging, and when the night came and " darkness rested 
on the face of tlie deep " we had another concert, which it is sufiQcient 
to say, passed off as successfully as the first. But the weather which up 
to this time, was very favorable, changed on the following morning. 

We had been for some time off the bleak and rugged coast of Nova 
Scotia, and the heavy sea which generally prevails here wrought a 
remarkable change in the majority of our passengers. They began to be 
deeply affected by the " bounding waves," and their feelings can be bet- 
ter imagined than described. There was a general want of confidence 
and each went to his state room to divine what the cause of it could be ; 
but as it M'as a subject that required " a miglity deal of nice consider- 
ation " it is not to be wondered at if it took a long time before it was 
satisfactorily settled. It might be well, however, to say that while in this 
state of feeling we felt we had no stomach for any thing. This was the 
third day of our voyage, and as we had intended to put into Halifax 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 



n 



on our way to Newfoundland, we were anxiously looking out for Sanbro 
light whicli stands at the entrance to its harbor. A heavy fog, however, 
settled on the ocean, and although but a few miles from the port we were 
obliged to put to sea and remain out till the following morning. During 
that night we were in imminent danger of a collision with another vessel, 
and but for the vigilance of our captain who never left his post, there 
might have been another Artie calamity to record. 







GATE MADE FROM THE JAW-BONES OF A WHALE. 



About nine o'clock we could see Sanbro light and in another hour 
were steaming past it on our way into the harbor of Halifax. Our visit 
lasted much longer than Ave expected in consequence of some unavoidable 
delay. "We made the best use of our time however, and before leaving 
saw a considerable portion of the city. Like true Yankees the moment 
our ship touched the wharf we jumped ashore and were pursuing our 
investigations in every quarter. We scattered ourselves over the city in 



18 \ T R I 1' T N K W F o r N n I, A N n . 

every direction, engaged all the carriages we could find and in a ride of a 
few hours obtained a tolerably clear idea of its character and condition. 
Some of our party visited the Boscawen, the flag-ship of Admiral Fan- 
shaw of the British Navy, others took a boat and passed a portion of 
their time rowing about the harbor, while others, made their way into the 
fort where they were entertained with much courtesy by two of the offi- 
cers. A rather amusing incident occurred during our visit to the fort, 
which it may not be out of place to relate here. Three or four of our 
friends who were iu advance of us had obtained admission through the 
kindness of one of the ofiScers who happened to be at the entrance when 
they drove up, and were on the ramparts when we made our appearance. 
The moment they saw us, one of the party called out in a stentorian voice 
and invited us to come iu. 

" Come right iu," said he ; " no trouble at all ; just drive through 
the gate." 

Supposing that was all we had to do, we told the driver to go ahead, 
but just as we got to the entrance, the sentry demanded our pass, and as 
we could not produce the required document, he obstinately persisted in 
refusing us admission. 

" Oh, step right in," exclaimed our friend above ; " don't mind him — 
that's all right — come in." 

We made another effort, but the soldier placed his musket across our 
path, and as the matter now presented a somewhat serious aspect, we de- 
sisted iu our attempts. Our friend on the rampart was rather dissatisfied, 
and still continued his entreaties not to " mind him, but to drive right 
in." In accordance with the advice of another soldier, we obtained the 
required ticket of admission from the Town Major, and passed the sentry 
without further trouble, much to the gratification of our friend, who after- 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND 





HARBOR OF PORT AU CASQUE. 



wards told us that he would have got into the fort in spite of " that fel- 
low with the red coat." 

As many of us could not return to tlie vessel in time for dinner, we 
went into one of the first hotels in the city and g-ave orders to the land- 
lord to prepare it for us. 

" Well gentlemen," said he, " what can I do for you ? " 

" We want some dinner," replied one of our party. 

" Dinner isn't ready yet, and won't be ready for two hours." 

" Ah yes. Well then you can let us have a beef steak, or a mutton 
chop, or anything of that kind." 

" Yery sorry, sir," replied the landlord with a gracious smile, " very 
sorry, but there is nothing of that kind till dinner is ready. Let me see," 
he added, and his eyes brightened up as if he had been struck by a happy 
i(jea — " let me see — yes — oh bless my soul ! yes ; I nearly forgot — ^what 
was I thinking about ? Yes, gentlemen, I can let you have some cheese 
and ale." 

We expected from his enthusiastic manner that he would wind up 
by informing us that he had a cold roast turkey, or duck, or jo-ut of beef, 
but when his enthusiasm reached its climax and we found that it had no 



20 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

better basis to rest upon than cheese and ale, we left in disgust and with 
a hearty wish that we were in New York again, if it were only for half 
an hour. 

In this dilemma we went into the first confectionary we could find, 
and in lieu of something more substantial, regaled ourselves on cakes and 
ice-cream. As we had but little time to spare, these were dispatched in a 
hurry, and one of our number proceeded with equal haste to pay the 
keeper of the store. 

" What is this ?" she inquired taking up a five dollar piece that he 
had thrown on the counter." 

" Five dollars," he answered. 

" Dear me, yes, I should certainly have known it. Now, sir, I'll get 
you your change." 

And calling one of her assistants told her to run up stairs and get 
all the silver she could find. 

" Now sir," she added turning to him, I shall give you your change 
in a few minutes." 

About five minutes after the assistant came into the store with both 
hands full of silver, and told her that was all the change to be found. It 
took at least five minutes more to count it and when that arduous task was 
accomplished she divided the silver into three piles, one of which we no- 
ticed was considerably smaller than the other two. 

" Now, sir," she said, calling his attention to the money with the air of a 
juggler about to perform some wonderful feat of necromancy — " Now it's 
all right — now you'll see. This," she continued, pointing to one of the 
piles, " is for the ice-cream and cakes, and this," pointing to another, " is 
for me, and that," pushing the third and smallest pile towards our friend, 
" is for you." 

We were unable to discover by what right she claimed a portion for 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 



21 




ENTRANCE TO ST. JOHN S, N. F. 

herself apart from that paid for the ice cream and cakes, and endeavored to 
argue the matter with her, but finding it impossible to arrive at any un- 
derstanding, we left with the determination not to indulge any more in such 
expensive luxuries in Halifax. 

Our experience here, however, put us a little more on the alert, and 
we resolved that it would be the last imposition. An opportunity soon 
offered of putting our resolution to the test. Three or four of our company 
had engaged a carriage to drive them round the city, and did not perceive 
till some time after they got into it that the horse could with difficulty drag 
himself along, not to speak of the vehicle. As they were going up the hill 
on which the fort was situated, they were obliged to get out and push both 
horse and carriage before them, which they succeeded in doing after fifteen 
minutes hard work. But if the horse was unable to go up the hill, he went 
down it with a speed that was anything but pleasant, and exhibited such a 
strong desire to run into holes and gullies that the passengers often wished 



22 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

tliemselves safe at the bottom. For this perilous ride the driver asked five 
dollars, altliough he had not been more than an liour employed. Our fel- 
low-passengers thought this rather too ranch for the privilege of push- 
ing a horse and carriage up a hill, and they concluded not to pay any- 
thing till the driver became a little more reasonable in his demands. As 
he insisted, however, on being paid five dollars, and as they were unwilling 
to be imposed upon, the case was brought l^efore a magistrate who fined 
him for his dishonesty. 

The people, as we have said, were not a little astonished at the pecu- 
liarities of the Yankees, and they certainly had cause for astonishment. 
We had hardly entered the dock before half a dozen lines were thrown 
over the stern and sides of our vessel, and as many of our passengers were 
busily engaged m fishing. Among these, too, unaccountable as it might 
appear to the natives, was a man whose fame has extended all over the 
civilized world, and who already occupies a position in history beside the 
greatest scientific discoverers of all nations. There, with his son, a bright 
little boy of seven or eight years, he amused himself catching fish, in which 
it may be gratifying to his friends to know that he was most successful, as 
the large number which lay beside him on the deck afforded abundant evi- 
dence. The Halifaxians do not possess a superabundance of energy or eu- 
terprize, and enthusiasm seems to be a quality of which they are utterly 
destitute. In fact from what we saw of them they appear to be too phleg- 
matic to take an active interest in anything, and it was only with the great- 
est efi'ort that they succeeded in raising three cheers for us at our depar- 
ture. It is said that they actually commenced a railroad from their city 
without the slightest idea as to where it should terminate, and the work 
remains unfinished up to the present time. Wlien our vessel reached the 
dock we found about a hundred persons assembled on the pier who gazed 
at us with the most listless curiosity, and as we looked at them wc could 



A TRIP TO X E W F O r N D L A N P , 



23 




VIEW OF ST. JOHN S FROM TOPSAIL ROAD. 



not help contrasting tliem with the citizens of the great metropolis we had 
left. Had a vessel arrived at New York under similar circumstances one 
half its population would have crowded to see it. Everything seemed to 
be at least half a century behind the age. The city itself had a most deso- 
late, wo-begone aspect, and looked as if two-thirds of its inhabitants had 
gone to sleep. It would be difficult to account in any other way for the 
deserted appearance of the streets, as its population is set down at twenty- 
five thousand. The piers, which are constructed on piles like those in our 
own city, had the same deserted look ; the warehouses along the wharves 
were generally closed, and even the dwellings seemed to be uninhabited. 
All the children we saw appeared to be in the greatest affliction, and were 
crying as if their little hearts would break. The houses too, as a general 
thing, have a rather uninviting appearance, and although we found many 
of them open, we were never strongly tempted to enter them. They are 



24 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

very old fashioned, are constructed mostly of wood, and are particularly re- 
markable for the great height of their roofs. In fact, some of them ap- 
pear to be all roof, so entirely out of proportion does this part of them 
seem, in comparison with the walls. There are, however, two or three 
respectable looking public edifices, among which may be mentioned • the 
Province Building, in which is the Hall of Representatives, constituting 
the House of Delegates and the Legislative Council Chamber. In the lat- 
ter apartment are full length portraits of George II., George III., Wil- 
liam IV., Queen Caroline, Queen Charlotte, Judge Blower and Chief Jus- 
tice Haliburton, all of which, with one or two exceptions, are well painted. 
This edifice is built of a rich brown, close grained sandstone, and in the 
Ionic order of architecture, with a double front, each facing one of the 
lateral streets. The whole edifice has an extent of one hundred and forty 
feet by seventy, and is about seventy feet in height. The chambers in 
which both branches of the Legislature assemble are much inferior to 
those in which the Common Council of New York hold their meetings, 
and the building, as a whole, is unworthy of comparison with the City 
Hall. 

The harbor, of which the Nova Scotians feel justly proud, is one of 
the finest in the world, and is capable of floating the largest vessels of 
war. A large island, called after its owner, Mr. McNab, protects the 
entrance from the waves of the ocean, which, during storms, break with 
resistless force upon its shores. St. George's is the name of another, but 
a much smaller island, which lies farther up in the harbor, and which 
belongs to the government. It is about two miles in circumference, and 
its centre is occupied by a fort and a martello tower, both of which, it is 
said would be alone sufficient to prevent the passage of a hostile fleet. A 
short distance from this island, not more than half a mile at the farthest, 
stJinds the city, on the side of a hill, commanding a magnificent view of 



A TRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 25 

the harbor. A larg-e and ahnost impregnable fort has been constructed 
on the summit of this hill, or we should rather say, is in process of con- 
struction, as it was not completed at the time of our visit. 

On the eastern shore of the harbor of Halifax, and opposite the city, 
is a little town called Dartmouth, with which constant communication is 
kept up by a small steamboat, that runs every hour or half hour between 
the two places. It was founded a few years after Halifax, in 1150 ; but 
its inhabitants having been driven out or massacred by the Indians, it 
was re-built in 1184 by several families from Xantucket, who carried on 
the whale fishery there with great success. 

Although Halifax has a very unattractive appearance to a New 
Yorker, its history is full of incidents of a most interesting, and not imfre- 
quently of a painful character. The horrible and unjustifiable expatri- 
ation of the Acadians, which is described in such glowing language by 
Bancroft, has given to it, in common with other parts of Nova Scotia, an 
undying interest. Ten thousand were driven into exile, and those who 
refused to leave their homes and who escaped from their oppressors, 
had their dwellings and even their houses of worship burned before 
their eyes. 

We saw while here several negroes who appeared to be on terms of 
perfect equality with the white population, that is, of course, Avith persons 
in their own condition of life. Those who have settled in Nova Scotia are 
principally from the United States, with a few from the West Indies. 
During our war with England, Sir Alexander Cochrane, who was in com- 
mand of the British squadron, brought away a great many negroes with 
him, from Maryland and Virginia, after ravaging the shores of the Chesa- 
peake. These were made free on their arrival at Nova Scotia, although 
judging from the condition of many I saw, their change from a state of 
servitude to that of British freedom did not improve them much. 



26 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

About half past seven o'clock, in the afternoon of the same day we 
arrived, we left Halifax, after giving the few who were on the pier three 
cheers twice repeated, and winding up with a New York " tiger." We 
succeeded in infusing something like enthusiasm into the people, who 
responded with more heart than we gave them credit for possessing. In 
less than two hours we were again out on the open sea, and making our 
way to Port au Basque where we expected to find the cable-ship, Sarah 
L. Bryant, 




CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL, ST. JOHNS. 




CHAPTER III. 

night of our departure from Halifax was tlie finest \v<! 
had since we left New York. There was hardly a ripple on 
the bosom of the ocean in wliieli the twinkling hght of ni3Tiads 
of stars was reflected as in a vast mirror. Meteors of woii- 
drons brilliancy shot athwart the heavens, leaving behind them a long 
train of light that dimmed the pale lustre of the stars. For hours we 
sat on the deck watching their movements, until sleep pressing heavily 
on our eyelids warned us that it was time to bring our astronomical o'jser- 
vations to a close. 

The iron bound coast of Cape Breton was visible tlirongliout the 
whole of Saturday, and as it was evident that we could not reach our 
place of destination before Sunday, we thought of putting into Louisburg, 



28 A TRIP TO NEWFOUND LAND. 

which was formeny one of the finest and most flourishing ports on the 
Island. It was built by the Acadians in 1*720, and was defended by 
strong fortifications. During the war between the English and French in 
1745, it was attacked by a large force of Colonists from Massachusetts, 
who succeeded after a desperate struggle of forty-five days in getting it 
into their possession. The siege for the numbers engaged, was one of the 
most obstinate and bloody on record, and caused a loss of four thousand 
lives on both sides. The city is at present in a most ruinous condition, 
and as there appears to be no intention on the part of its present posses- 
sors, the English, to rebuild it, it is destined to remain in that state for 
the next half century at least. 

Early on Sunday morning, the 12th of August, we came within sight 
of Newfoundland, and as may be supposed, there was considerable excite- 
ment on board. There it lay like a dark cloud on the horizon, and there 
were sage speculations among those who professed to be learned in 
nautical matters, as to whether it was really a cloud or the Island itself. 
Grave arguments were held on the subject always terminating, however, 
with the unsatisfactory conclusion of " wait and you'll see," which we all 
philosophically concluded to do as it was the only course left. Gradually 
the cloudy indistinctness of the land disappeared, and as the more prominent 
points of the coast became visible, not a soul could be found who did'nt 
believe it was real, genuine, bona fide terra firma from the very commence- 
ment. About five hours before we reached Port an Basque, where it 
was expected we would find the Cable Ship, the bold promontory of Cape 
Ray, which is the extreme southwestern limit of Newfoundland, was 
visible from the deck of the steamer. All the telescopes on board were 
brought into requisition, opera glasses were in great demand, and those 
who were not so fortunate as to possess either, strained their eyes looking 
through spectacles and spy glasses in the vain hope that they would see 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 29 

something like a sliip twenty miles off, and firmly believing that that ship 
when found would be the very one we were in search of. We could per- 
ceive the fishermen's huts when within a distance of eight or ten miles, but 
no vessel except a few fishing smacks greeted our anxious gaze. It was 
suggested that as a portion of the harbor was hidden from the view by 
high rocks she might not be visible from sea ; but even that hope was 
dispelled when we arrived at its entrance. Two schooners were lying at 
anchor there, but the cable-ship had not made her appearance although 
they were expecting her arrival over two weeks. A vessel was seen on 
the morning of Saturday answering to the description of our ship standing 
off Port au Basque ; it was blowing so hard however, and the wind was 
so adverse that she was obliged to put to sea again. 

This was a great disappointment as the weather was most favorable 
for the laying of the cable and, as we intended to begin work at the 
earliest hour on Monday morning. In this dilemma we could do nothing 
but either await the arrival of the Sarah L. Bryant, or go direct to St. 
John's which we intended to visit before our retuini to New York, pay our 
respects while there to the authorities of Newfoundland, and after a brief 
stay, call at Port au Basque again where it was confidently expected we 
would find the object of our search if she had not foundered at sea. We 
lay outside the harbor three or four hours to land some articles which 
were required in the construction of the telegraph at that point. Some 
of the members of the Company went ashore where they were met by 
Mr. Canning, an experienced engineer from London, who was engaged 
to superintend the laying of the cable. He confirmed what we had heard 
about a vessel having been seen off the coast the day before. 

As our stay here was very brief, and as many of us only saw the land 
from the deck of our steamer, we could form no correct idea of its charac- 
ter. It had a wild, bleak and inhospitable look, however, and the account 



30 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

that our pilot, who had visited it frequently, gave us of it was anything 
but pleasing. It was, he said, nothing but rock and bog, interspersed here 
and there with deep holes and quagmires, into which, he jokingly informed 
us, it would be much easier to get than to come out. But after all, the 
majestic hills that towered to the height of fifteen hundred feet above the 
ocean, the huge masses of rocks that lined the coast, and the restless sea 
whose waves broke in foam at their feet imparted to the scene a sublimity 
that all the bogs, and quagmires, and holes could not affect. Our pilot, 
too, told us strange stories and incidents of the place which gave it an ad- 
ditional interest in our eyes. As might be supposed from the name, it was 
colonized by the French, and although now in possession of the English, 
it still retains some traces of its French origin. One of the stories related 
by our pilot, is so romantic, that we feel certain our readers will justify 
us in giving it a place here. We must premise, however, that it was 
given to us not merely as a romance, but a matter of history, and that 
there are many living in France who can testify to the particulars, al- 
though it is to be regretted that the exact locality where they live has 
not been made known to us. Although not told in the very words of our 
informant, we have endeavored to set forth the facts, circumstances, and 
incidents with a due respect to historical accuracy. 

When the Revolution of 1189 swept over France, scattering its noblest 
families on every side like withered leaves before the breath of autumn, 
there came to Port au Basque a French emigre, accompanied by his wife 
and child. What could have induced them to take up their abode on that 
inhospitable shore, was a matter of wondering conjecture to the simple- 
minded fishermen who dwelt there, for Monsieur de Saint Maur had no 
occupation ; he neither made nor mended nets, nor built boats, nor caught 
fish ; in short, he was supremely ignorant of all the little arts that in their 
opnion, made u}) the sum of earthly knowledge. But as weeks and 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUND I, AND. 



31 




GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ST. JOHNS. 



months passed over, the surprise excited by the first appearance of the 
strangers deepened into interest, and the kindness of Madame de Saint Maur 
and the beauty and childish grace of little Adele were the theme of all, 
and won the hearts of the unsophisticated people among whom they 
lived. Dearly did the little girl love these kind-hearted and simple- 
minded people ; but the wild and desolate character of Port an Bas- 
que, its barren soil on which a few hardy wild flowers struggled to 
exist, and the sullen roar of the mighty ocean that broke in foam along 
the rock-bound shore, made her pine for the sunny skies and vine-clad 
hills of her own beloved France. 

Often of a summer's eve would Monsieur de Saint Maur take his 
child on his knee, and, pointing eastward, tell her stories of the land 
they loved, yet left ; of its liistoric glories and its genial, gay and gallant 
people. How vividly were those evenings remembered in after years when 
the father who had dwelt so fondly on his theme, and the mother who 
sighed and smiled while she listened, had passed away from earth. 

Fortunately for Adele before that melancholy event occurred, a friend 



32 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

and compatriot of her father settled in Port au Basque, and to his care 
Monsieur de Saint Maur when dying confided his beloved child. Never 
was confidence better placed ; and in time Adele transferred the love she 
had felt for her father to him who was father, friend, instructor, all in one. 
Fresh and beauteous " as the morning rose when the dew wets its leaves," 
she grew up in that humble cottage by the sea side, her monotonous life 
chequered by no incident more exciting than the annual return of the fish- 
ing season. 

One morning the fleet of boats had just put out to sea, and Adele sat 
watching them till the last had disappeared beyond the entrance of the 
harbor. The sea was calm and unruffled, the sky bright overhead, and 
where the slanting sunlight fell, the water shone and sparkled in liquid 
effulgence. It was a day of happy omen, and the fishermen's wives turned 
from the beach to attend to their household duties with happy hearts ; 
but ere the sun went down the aspect of the heavens underwent a total 
change ; the sky became overcast, heavy masses of black clouds loomed 
above the horizon while others torn in fragments were swept like mist be- 
fore the wind. 

During the night the storm increased in violence, and to add to the 
horrors of the scene there was heard amid the pauses of the wind a signal 
gmi — the passing bell of some ill-fated vessel. There was no one in the 
village to give assistance had it been practicable, and the vessel unable to 
withstand the fury of the storm, went to pieces, only two of the passengers 
escaping with their lives. They were washed on shore in an exhausted 
condition and owed their fives to the perseverance of Monsieur Blanc, 
Adele's guardian, who continued his exertions after others had given up 
in despair. 

The two men saved from the wreck were father and son, members of 
a n ble French family, the father bound on a mission of diplomacy to the 



A TKIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 33 

United States, the son a distinguished officer in Napoleon's army. Mon- 
sieur Blanc had them conveyed to his own residence, and there, thanks 
to Adele's unremitting care, they soon recovered. While the emigre of 
'87 listened with insatiable avidity to the marvels told him by the diploma- 
tist of the Consulate of which only the broken echo had reached his place 
of refuge, the young soldier related to Adele stories of the Italian cam- 
paign, and dwelt with enthusiasm on the mingled peril and glory of a sol- 
dier's career. The "dullest elf" can imagine what followed, and if he 
cannot we refer him to Othello, Enough for us to say that not many 
weeks after the wreck there were tears and lamentations throughout the 
village, for Adele de Saint Maur, the Rose of the sea side, the Pride of 
Port au Basque, became the bride of the French officer, and accompanied 
by her faithful guardian, sailed for the land of her birth. 

The romantic story of the Saint Maur family it is needless to say 
was listened to with rapt attention, and all who heard it felt a renewed 
interest in Port au Basque, unattractive as it appeared from the account 
given by our pilot. 




- 


'^~Wi 


^'^■ 




^ '— 




=»».- 








-A 


■ — — 


* --»-*5" 


*» 


-aiES 








Vv 


_ " 




BELLEISLE, N. F. 



CHAPTER IV. 



greater portion of tlie southern coast of Newfoundland 
was visible from the deck of our steamer during nearly the 
whole period of our passage from Port an Basque to St. Johns. 
The character of the coast scenery was the same throughout, 
presenting to the eye of the voyager nothing but bold rugged cliffs, which 
in some places rose precipitously out of the water to the height of three 
or four hundred feet. On the morning of the 14th of August, about 
seven o'clock, we were within a few miles of our Dlace of destination. 
Every body was up early, for we liad heard so much of the harbor of 
St. Johns and the approach to it, that we determined to see all that was 
to be seen. 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 35 

The morning of our arrival, unfortunately was rainy and, as may l)e 
supposed, the city did. not appear to the best advantage ; but the gran- 
deur of the surrounding scenery, and especially that of the coast more 
than made up for the annoyance we felt in consequence of the weather. 
The island is j^rotected on the cast by the same bold mountainous line of 
coast which we had observed all along its southern extremity. Steep 
rocks rise to the height of seven and eight hundred feet almost perpendicu- 
lar out of the water which is so deep that the largest vessel might pass 
alongside within a few feet with perfect safety. In some places their front 
is scarred by deep seams which extend from their very summits, not unfre- 
c^ueutly terminating in huge caves at their base. We felt the strongest 
curiosity to enter some of these, and make explorations in their hidden 
recesses, but had no opportunity of doing so, and were obliged to leave 
without gratifying our desire. They were just such caves as we had read 
of long ago in our days of novel reading, recalling to mind the thrilling 
adventures of pirates and smugglers, with their long, low, black schooners. 
We invested them with the most romantic interest, and endeavored to 
convert the small sloops which dotted the sea into those rakish looking 
crafts ; but it was useless ; the picture soon faded before the reality, and 
,we found it impossible to transform the humble, honest and simple-hearted 
fishermen into the reckless, cut-throat buccaneer. Instead of the black 
flag, with the death's head and cross bones, there was the Union Jack, 
the unmistakable emblem of England's sovereignty. It seemed so strange, 
too, that it, instead of the stars and stripes, should be there ; for in the 
forgetfulness of the moment, we supposed we were still under the broad 
pinion of the American eagle, and that Newfoundland was only a distant 
part of our own repnblic. 

The entrance to the harbor of St. Johns is so concealed from the 
view at sea that we could not perceive it till within a distance of half a 



36 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 

mile. On the right rises Signal Hill, to a height of at least six hundred 
feet, overlooking the town, and commanding a fine view of the country, 
which extends behind it like a gigantic panorama. The summit of this 
hill is crowned with a fortification, and at its base is another, neither of 
which, in their present condition, would be capable of resisting a well sus- 
tained attack by sea and land. The entrance or Narrows, as it is called, 
is, however, well defended by other forts, and in the last war it was pro- 
tected by an immense iron chain extending acro&'s and fastened to the 
rocks on either side. The marks left by drilling holes in the rocks are still 
visible, as are also the remains of an old cannon and anchor which had 
served as holdfasts for the chain. Opposite Signal Hill, on the other side 
of the Narrows, rises another hill, or mountain as it should more properly 
be termed, to an elevation above the level of the water of over six hundred 
feet. On the other side of this, and about one hundred and fifty feet from 
its base, another fort has been erected, in the centre of which stands the 
lighthouse. While passing this point we were hailed by a soldier, who 
inquired where we were from, and how many days we were out, and hav- 
ing answered him, we gave the good people of St. Johns notice of our 
approach with a thundering salute that was repeated a hundred times by 
the echoing hills. The Narrows is about a third of a mile in length, while 
it varies in width from three to fifteen hundred yards, and was doubtless 
formed in one of those terrible convulsions to which the whole island seems 
to have been subjected, and to which it probably owes its origin. It ap- 
peared as if the mountain had been torn apart, leaving a safe passage 
open to the harbor, where, even in the most violent storms, the waters are 
hardly ever agitated above a ripple. The city is built on the side of a 
hill, which ascends gradually to a height of about a hundred and fifty feet, 
and presents an exceedingly picturesque appearance. It overlooks the 
harbor, which is a little over a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 3t 

width ; and which is one of the best harbors in the world, affording at all 
times a safe anchorage for ships of the largest dimensions. The first thing 
that strikes the visitor is its peculiar formation. After you have passed 
the entrance it has the appearance of a lake, so completely is it shut in 
from the ocean. Gigantic hills tower above you on every side, except that 
on which the city stands, and on their rough and rugged declivities little 
patches of gardens have been made by the more industrious of the fisher- 
men, whose little cottages help to subdue the natural wilduess of the 
scene. Xear the water's edge, and all around the harbor, are erected the 
stages or " flakes " as they are termed, on which the codfish are cured. 

The town of St. Johns has no public buildings that can lay claim 
to architectural pretensions, with the exceptions of the Catholic Cathedral, 
which is a large and imposing edifice, built in the style of the Roman 
Basilica, and capable of holding ten thousand persons, or little less than 
half the population of the whole city. It cost about five hundred thou- 
sand dollars, and has several very fine pieces of sculpture, among which 
are two or three of the best prodactions of Hogan, the celebrated Irish 
sculptor. The Colonial Building, as the structure in which the legislative 
business of the Island is transacted is called, was built a few years ago at 
an expense of about two hundred thousand dollars. It is a square granite 
building, two stories high, with a large portico in front, supported by six 
Ionic pillars. It contains the chambers of the two legislative branches, 
the House of Assembly and the Legislative Council, besides the library, 
and a number of smaller apartments. A short distance from the Colonial 
Building is the Governor's house, in which Clias. II. Darling, the recently 
appointed Governor of the Island resides. The country around St. Johns 
is remarkable for the diversity as well as the beauty of its scenery. In 
the afternoon of the day on which we arrived, a party of us enjoyed the 
luxury of a ride along an exquisite little valley called the Yale of River- 



38 A T R I P T N E W F U N D L A N D . 

head. The roads which branch out in every direction froiu the city are 
without the least exaggeration among the finest in the world, and Topsail 
Road which runs along the side of one of the hills that form the boundary 
of this valley, affords one of the most delightful drives in this part of the 
country. As you ascend the more elevated parts of it you can see the 
whole town of St. Johns, the harbor which lies at its feet and the lofty 
crest of Gibbet and Signal Hills, towering in the more remote distance, 
beyond which the deep blue of the Atlantic is visible through the huge 
gaps of the coast mountains. Below you, almost at your feet, lies the 
Vale of Riverhead, forming in its quiet beauty a marked contrast with 
the wild mountain scenery by which it is surrounded. A small stream fed 
by tiny rivulets from the rough sides of the mountains pours its clear 
waters through the centre of the valley, making sweet music as it sweeps 
sparkling over its rocky bed. In some places its course is broken by 
miniature cascades, that glitter like a shower of diamonds in the warm 
sunlight, while in others it is almost wholly concealed from the sight 
by overhanging trees, beneath whose shade its waters become black as 
midnight. It is a trout stream too — just such a one as Walton would 
have delighted to angle in. Beautiful little cottages dot its banks, and 
here and there may be seen, through the jealous foliage that cling around 
them, the more imposing mansions of the wealthier inhabitants of St. 
Johns. It is a lovely scene, and might have tempted a less ardent ad- 
admirer of the beauties of nature than we professed to be to linger a few 
weeks among its attractions. But necessity — " stern necessity," as the 
poet calls it — interposes : the cable must be laid, and in a few days more 
the charming Valley of Riverhead will Ije lost to our view, perhaps for- 
ever. 

One of the particular features of Newfoundland is its numerous 
lakes, and the country in tlie vicinity of St. Johns abounds in them. One 



A. TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 



39 




POETIGAL COVE. X. F. 



of the most picturesque of these is Virginia Water, wliich has an area of 
about eighty acres, and is surrounded by a dense wood of pine, spruce and 
other evergreens. The estate of whicli it forms a part, extends over a 
thousand acres, and belongs to the Hon. G. H. Emerson, Solicitor 
General of the island, and member of the Executive and Legislative 
Councils, whose neat little villa is situated on its borders. These lakes 
are for the most part situated in the low lands, but it is not at all unusual 
to find them on the tops of mountains. George's pond, which supplies 
the city with water, and which is a sort of natural basin in the rock, is 
at least four hundred feet above the sea. There is also another, called 
Wilmore's, which supplies the place of an artificial reservoir, and, which 
we were told could not be fathomed. The water is conveyed from both 
of these by pipes, and distributed over the city, Looking down from a 
height of between two and three hundred feet above these ponds is Signal 



40 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Hill, which, as has been already stated, stands at the right of the entrance 
to the Narrows, and about half a mile farther in from the sea frowns the 
bleak coae called Gibbet Hlil, which owes its name to a gibbet that stood 
on its summit, and upon which a murderer was executed many years ago. 
Strange wild stories are told of a human form having been seen there after 
the magic hour of midnight writhing in all the agonies of death from a 
gallows, while the most unearthly sounds were heard. There were many 
who knew of this, but unfortunately the eye-witnesses were not to be found. 
The people of St. Johns preserve in a most remarkable degree the 
peculiarities and distinguishing features of their descent. Those of Irish 
origin are easily distinguished from the English and the Scotch by their 
accent, and if you were not aware of this difference you might veiy 
easily mistake the birth-place of a ]!s^ewfoundlander, as there is nothing 
to distinguish them in this respect from the natives of Great Britain. It 
is the same, too, with regard to their features, which retain the distinct 
marks of their ancestry through two, and even three generations. In 
many other particulars they resemble the people of the mother country, 
for here, nature, or human nature, rather, appears to be governed by a 
different law from that which prevails in the United States, where all 
traces of descent are generally lost in one, and certainly in two genera- 
tions, and all the original and distinctive marks are blended in one grand 
nationality. They are, with a few exceptions, very liberal in their senti- 
ments, and particularly well disposed to our people, with whom they are 
very desirous of extending their present limited commercial intercourse. 
As a means of bringing about so desirable a result, they regard the 
present telegraph enterprize with great confidence, and it will doubtless, 
if successful, be attended with the most beneficial effects to them. During 
our brief stay among them our whole company had the strongest evi- 
dence of their hospitality and friendly feelings. It was impossible for us 



A TRI r T O X E W FO U Nn L A y n. 41 

to accept their numerous pressing invitations, tlicir houses, their horses, 
their carriages, were all placed at our disposal, and when we left them 
on our way to Port au Basque our parting seemed hke that of old and 
long cherished friends. 

Any one who has ever visited St. Johns must have observed the laro-c 
number of Xewfoundland dogs with which its streets are Ijcset at all hours 
of the night and day. You meet them wherever you go ; they lie rio-ht 
across Ihe pathway, and sometimes make their beds in the middle of the 
road ; they stand like sentinels at every door, and, although they never 
dispute your passage, they look at you with an inquiring gaze as if they 
desired to know your business. In winter they are employed by the poor 
in drawing wood in sledges for which kind of labor they seem peculiarly 
adapted by their strength and docility. Of their sagacity the most won- 
derful stories are told, and as might be supposed, we heard many during 
our visit at St. Johns. Some of these were evidently intended to test the 
credulity of the hearer, and are deserving of a place among the most 
astounding of Munchauseus inventions. Speaking one day to an old 
fisherman about the sagacity of a gigantic specimen of the fine breed 
which he owned, he launched forth in the most enthusiastic eulogy of his 
many good qualities. 

" I never," said he, " seed such an animal. He beats any dog ever 
I com'd across all hollow, and as for sense, why I tell you he's got more 
than many Christians I have heerd on. If I was to tell you some things 
about that fellow," he continued, looking down at the dog which stood 
beside him, and patting him affectionately on the head, " you wouldn't 
believe me. Would they Sailor ?" he said, addressing the animal whicli 
looked up in his face witli an expression that seemed to say as well as dog 
could s:iy, " I'm of your opinion exactly." 

"Well, gentlemen," proceeded the worthy fisherman, "you needn't 



42 ATRTPTOXEWFnUNDLANP. 

believe me, but it's the trutli I'm tellin'— that dog 'ill wake me up any 
hour of the morning that I tell him, and if I don't get up he'll pull me 
out of the bed." 

" Pull you out of the bed !" said one of our party, with a smile of 
incredulity. 

" Yes, sir, he'll pull me out of the bed, and he's often done it afore 
now. But that's not all, gentlemen, that dog has gone a-fishin' just as 
nat'ral as any human bein'." 

" Gone a fishing," we all exclaimed with one voice. 

" Yes, gentlemen, gone a-fishin' ; and as I said afore, you needn't 
believe it if you don't like." 

For the privilege which he gave us of doubting his word, we were 
of course duly thankful, and having expressed our utmost confidence in 
himself and respect for the wonderful accomplishments of " Sailor' we 
requested with a proper feeling of reverence for both, to be enlightened 
upon the particular qualifications of the animal. 

" Why, you see, I tell you how he does. He gets the line and after 
he baits the hooks he fastens one end of it on the shore and swims out 
with the other end some distance ; then he drops it in the water. 
When he's done this he gets a piece of the lino in his mouth and as soon 
as he feels the fish a-bitin' he gives it a sudden jerk and then swims ashore 
with him." 

" Ah, yes, that's all very well," said one of his hearers, " but how 
does he get the hook out ?" 

" Well, you see he never lets the fish swallow the hook, and to pre- 
vent him from doin' so he catches him on the very first nil)ble. Oh, he's 
a cunnin' fellow, I tell you, gentlemen. Why, if I was to tell you every- 
thin' about him," he said, "you wouldn't believe me no more'n I was 
tellin' you a pack of lies." 



A TRIP TO N K WFOUNDLANir. 



43 




COD-FISinNG OFF ST. JOHNS. 



We assured him we had every confidence in his veracity, adding that 
there was no reason why we should not, as we had some dogs in the 
United States which were tauglit the dumb alphabet. This was about as 
far as a proper regard for truth would allow us to go, but the reputation 
of our country was at stake, and we were determined that its powers of 
" invention" should be fully sustained. 

While in St. Johns a perfect dog mania broke out among our com- 
pany, and an extensive trade in pups was 0])ened with the natives. It 
had been reported about the city that the Yankees were buying up all 
the dogs they could see, and the consequence was that from morning till 
night the pier, alongside of which of our steamer lay, was crowded from 
moi'u till night with boys and men, each of whom had from one to five 
or six pups and dogs of all sizes and ages. During the four days of our 



44 A TRIP TO X K W F O II N n I, A N D . 

visit a regular dog market was established beside the vessel to which the 
country people came from miles around to dispose of their canine stock. 

As we have said, a perfect dog mania broke out among our passen- 
gers, and about forty from a moiith to three years old were carried off 
unresisting victims into exile. Whatever doubt there might be as to the 
purity of the breed, there could be no dispute as to their being " New- 
foundland " dogs, and with many that seemed to be sufficient. Two of 
the finest were named "Telegraph" and "Cable" by their owners, in 
their enthuasiasm for the great eutcrprize. Tlie pure breed it is said are 
fast becoming extinct in St. Johns, but judging from the large number of 
" full bloods " that were exhibited, there would appear to be strong 
reasons for doubting the truth of that assertion. However, they have 
outlived their original masters, the poor aborigines, against whom a relent- 
less war of extermination was waged till the whole race has been swept 
off the land. History has many sad tales, but among the saddest is that 
she tells of the red men of Newfoundland. 




illjcn^ 



nOlTSING THK COD. 





CHArTER V. 



name of Xewfouiullaiid is inseparably associated with fish 

^ in the mind of every person, and naturally so, as it forms tlie 



principal article of export from tlie Island. In fact, the greater 
portion of its population depend upon the fislieries for their 
subsistence and one years failure in tlie supply would be attended with tlie 
most disastrous effects. The southern, eastern and ^\■estcrn coasts are 
studded with little villages and towns whose inhabit mts live almost entirely 
by fishing, while the only portions of the Island under cultivation are 
small tracts in the vicinity of St. Johns and other large towns. It must 
be admitted, however, that the soil is not of the best description and it is 
hardly probable that the people will give much of their attention to agri- 



46 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

cultural pursuits while fishing continues more lucrative. The settlement 
of the interior of the country is, therefore, of such slow jDrogress and the 
central jDortions of the Island are so little known that they have not as 
yet been accurately mapped out, and are traversed only by tribes of wan- 
dering Mic-Mac Indians. Various reports have been circulated regard- 
ing its great mineral wealth, but mining operations have so far been car- 
ried on to such a very limited extent that no reliable information can be 
obtained upon the subject. Its peculiar geological formation as well as 
the partial explorations that have been made, would seem to favor the 
truth of such reports, and it is a well ascertained fact that coal, copper, 
iron and silver have been found in many places. The success of the pres- 
ent telegraph enterpi'ize must eventually open up the resources of the 
country and present it in another character to the world than that of a 
mere fishing station, but while it remains in its present condition as a de- 
pendency of England its progress will always be retarded. For the proof 
of this assertion we need only direct the attention of the reader to Canada, 
which stands out in such marked contrast with the United States, a coQ' 
trast which every impartial person must admit is attributable mainly to 
the difference existing in their forms of government. The day that sees 
the bond of Union between Newfoundland and the Mother Country sev- 
ered will be one of the brightest in the history of that island. 

At present, as we have said, the most lucrative occupation of the 
people is fishing, and such are the profits realized by the merchants that 
it is nothing unusual for them to make in the course of a single season 
over one hundred thousand dollars by the seal and codfisheries. Some 
idea may be formed of the extent to which they are carried on from the 
fact that the yearly product amounts to thirteen millions. It must be 
observed, however, that cod is not the only fish caught along the shores, 
but that herring are taken in such abundance that they promise at some 



A- TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 4T 

future day to form the principal article of export. Salmon is also very 
plenty, and the lakes and rivers swarm with trout. There appears to be 
no limit to the supply ; the whole ocean around the coast teems with fish 
which become an easy prey even to the most inexpert. Talk of the gold 
mines of California ! They cannot compare with the inexhaustible wealth 
of the fisheries of Newfoundland. No wonder that the English struggled 
so hard to exclude others from sharing it with them, when the monopoly 
of the commerce it creates would give them the whole world for a market. 
However, in spite of all the restrictions which they have placed upon other 
nations to prevent them from participating in the fisheries, they have not 
as yet succeeded in driving either the French or our own countrymen 
from that field of enterprize, and although they enjoy all the advantage 
which almost sole possession of the country gives them, the annual receipts 
are pretty equally divided, as may be seen from the following proportions : 
French, $4,500,000 ; English, $4,500,000 ; American, $4,000,000. The 
French, also' Own a portion of the coast, and to this more than to their 
superior enterprize, is owing the difference in the yearly amounts realized 
by them and the English as compared with the Americans. 

It might naturally be supposed that St. Johns, which is the resi- 
dence of the fish merchants, and from which a large proportion of the 
whole product of the island is exported, would be one of the richest cities 
in the British Provinces, but this is far from being the case, hardly one- 
fourth the amount realized being expended tliere. In this respect it is 
subject to the evils of the Colonial system of England which drains its 
dependencies of their substance and vitality for the support of its own 
aristocracy and royalty. The merchants are chiefly of English birth, and 
as the island has no attractions for them, it is only tolerable on account of 
the means it affords of acquiring the wealth whereby they are enabled to 
live in luxury and magnificence at home. They have no sympathies in 



48 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

common with the poor fishermen by whose labor they accumulate princely 
fortunes, and who are made the subject of the most shameful imposition. 
But if the merchants are exacting and unfair in their dealings with the 
fishermen the latter are, it must be acknowledged, indebted to their own 
improvidence and want of self-reliance for this. They are generous, it is 
said, to a fault, and too often improvident in the disposition of their means, 
so that they are almost always at the mercy of the merchants who pur- 
chase their fish at the lowest possible price. But although the price they 
receive is small in proportion to the amount realized by the merchants, 
they can save, if at all expert, during a favorable season enough to support 
themselves and families for the whole year. But the money which is so 
easily made is as rapidly spent, and long before the end of the year 
they are dependent upon the merchant for the necessaries of life, which 
their helpless condition compels them to take, although furnished at an 
exorbitant rate. 

Although naturally desirous of a change which would give them 
better customers, the poor fishermen do not seem to possess the energy, 
the self-reliance, nor the economy necessary to bring such a revolution 
about. They are all favorable to our countrymen of whose lilierality they 
have the most enlarged ideas, and they frequently express the hope that 
they will at no distant day become the sole purchasers of their fish. It is 
well, however, to say here to those who may desire to embark in this 
business that they must place themselves in the same position towards the 
fishermen that the resident merchants of St. Johns occupy, and that they 
should either live in that city or have trust- worthy agents there for the 
transaction of their business. The buyer of the fish is always certain of 
a market, and after paying a liberal price for it he can still make a hand- 
some profit from his proceeds. We may add that when at St. Johns we 



A TRIP TO H K TV K n r K n I, A v n 



49 




CUKIXQ THE Fisn. 



were told seven dollars i:)er quintal was obtained by the mcrcliaut, which 
was about one half the amount paid to the fisherman. 

Although more reliable than seal fishhig, cod-fishing is still somewhat 
precarious, depending, as it does, to a great degree on the state of the 
weather and the supply of herrings, which are used for bait. In one 
week an expert hand can catch twenty hundred weight ; but there are 
times when he cannot catch more than one-fifth that amount. Herrings 
are taken in nets near the shore in immense quantities and form one of the 
principal articles of export. Very little attention was formerly paid to 
this branch of the Newfoundland fisheries, but it is now gaining in import- 
ance, and may eventually rival if it should not exceed the Cod fisheries. 

The process of curing the Cod is very simple. At the close of tho 
day, or wheu the boats are as full as they can hold, the fish are thrown 



50 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

by means of poles armed on one end with a fork, into the house where 
they are to be cured, a sketch of which is presented in one of the illustra- 
tions. They are immediately taken by persons inside and prepared for 
salting while fresh. The cutter into whose hands they first fall performs 
the operation of cutting their throat which is done in the most scientific 
manner, and with an almost incredible rapidity. When he has done his 
work he passes the fish to the man who stands at his side, who completes 
the operation by taking off its head, after which he transfers it to a third 
person, called the splitter, who opens and extracts the backbone. The 
dexterity with which all this is performed is surprising and almost baffles 
the vision by its celerity. In this state the fish are salted, after which 
they are carried in small quantities on a sled out of the house, piled in 
stacks and allowed to remain so for a few days. They are then taken 
down and after being thoroughly washed are exposed on flakes to the sun. 
Here they lie until they are perfectly dried and are then made up in stacks 
for the last time preparatory to being shipped for exportation. The 
" flakes," as the staging or platform on which they are dried is called, are' 
constructed of poles made of the spruce and pine which support a flooring 
of the same material. The poles, however, instead of being placed close 
together as is the case in ordinary floorings, are laid from one to two inches 
apart to admit the free circulation of the air, and thus facilitate the pro- 
cess of drying. 

As we were determined on learning the practical part of fishing and 
of having the gratification of saying on our return that we caught cod 
off the coast of Newfoundland we hired a boat early one morning, engag- 
ed the services of a couple of fishermen, and having provided ourselves 
with everything necessary took leave of our ship resolved to astonish our 
fellow-passengers with the proofs of our piscatorial skill. One of our 
party, who was an amateur in the fishing line, had been boasting of his 



A TRIP TO N E W F O U M n I, A N n . .51 

wonderful exploits and of what he could accomplish if he once had a line 
in his hand. He was aio fait in everything about it from the harpooning 
of a whale to the hooking of a trout, and it was but natural to suppose 
that we should defer to his superior judgment. He was in fact the head, 
the prime mover in the excursion of that day, and we all regarded him 
with feelings of the highest respect. This was increased still more by the 
learned manner in which he discoursed with one of the fishermen about 
things piscatorial, and the air of authority he assumed when fish were 
spoken of in his presence, and it is a fact related of him by one of his 
greatest admirers, that he went into a long disquisition upon the many 
varieties of the finny tribe upon hearing the word "scales" spoken of 
in his presence by a Dutch grocer. We felt that with him we could do 
everything, without him nothing, and our annoyance can therefore be well 
imagined when just as we were prepared to start he was not to be seen. 
We looked for him everywhere, our party appointed themselves a com- 
mittee of investigation and with a diligence and perseverance worthy of 
the highest praise they searched for him in every hole and corner of the 
vessel where it was possible for a human body to be stowed ; all their 
efforts however were unsuccessful, and they were about giving up the 
search when to our infinite delight ancf surprise he made his appearance. 
At first we could with difCculty recognize him he had undergone such a 
transformation, but we soon became satisfied of his identity by one of our 
party saying something about " bait," when he proceeded with his usual 
volubility to descant upon his favorite topic. This was enough, we felt 
renewed confidence under his guidance and everything being ready we pre- 
pared to start in earnest. The rope which held us to the pier was unfast- 
ened, and with a cheer which was answered by those who remained on the 
deck of the steamer, we took leave of our friends ashore with the exultant 
feelinffs of men certain of success. Our confidence in three of the mem- 



52 A T R I P T N E \V F O U N n I, A N D . 

hers of our party was, we must confess, a little shaken, by the discovery 
tliat they had bought clothes lines, instead of fishing lines, and that their 
hooks were nothing but common hold-fasts. We felt that their ignorance 
had been taken advantage of by some "smart" fellow in St. Johns, and 
that they had been mercilessly victimized. We promised in compassion 
for them not to say a word about it to their friends, but in shame we must 
acknowledge, that our love of ridicule got the better of us and as many 
had done before, we sacrificed our friendship for a joke. When the 
excitement produced by this discovery had somewhat subsided, we all 
eagerly inquired of our leader what had become of him and the cause of 
the remarkable change we observed in his appearance. 

" Look at me," said he — "' look at me from head to foot ; " with a 
smile of satisfaction he vainly endeavored to suppress out. of respect for his 
own authority. 

We did as desired, and found t'.iat the change was produced by a 
huge pair of canvass overalls and a jacket of the same material. 

" You see," he said, when we liad finished our inspection of him, 
" I am always jiroperly prepared and provided when I go on a fishing 
excursion." 

And he turned towards our friends of the clothes lines with a look 
of withering contempt for the disgrace tliey had inflicted on the party. 
We felt their shame so keenly that if he had ordered us to tlii'ow them 
overboard we would have done so without the sliglitest hesitation out of 
respect for liis wounded feelings. The contemptuous expression, however, 
soon passed off his features which now began to brighten under the potent 
influence of a coming joke. 

" Yes," he proceeded, " while you were waiting I was providing 
myself with these articles, and it was with the greatest difficulty I could 
procure them." 



T K I r TO N F W F O I' N n T, A K n . 



53 




A FISU FLAKE. 



" How was that ?" inquired one of the fishermen. " I always 
thought," he added, " you could get as many of them as you wanted in St. 
Johns." 

" Oh, there was no lack of them," replied our leader, " but the great 
trouble was in procuring change. You recollect Halifax," he said to us. 

Yes, we all recollected Halifax. 

" Well, then," he continued, " as little change as there was there, 
there is it appears still less in St. Johns. Although I had no trouble in 
finding what I wanted, I had to go to three stores before I could get 
change for a five dollar piece, and while on my travels I learned that 
when a ten dollar piece makes its appearance among them they generally 
call a town meeting to decide what they are to do under the circumstances. 
The first store I went into the keeper looked at me with eyes opened 
to their fullest extent, as if I were some wild animal that had broken his 
chain." 



54 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND 

" You want a pair of overalls," he said, whea he got over his won- 
der. 

" Yes, I want a pair of your overalls, I replied." 

" Well, here they are," and he handed me down just the pair I 
wanted. 

" What's the price ? " I inquired, throwing down a five dollar piece. 

" What^s the price ? " he repeated, as if soliloquizing, and then with- 
out giving a direct answer, he went on to speak of the excellence of the 
article. 

" They are very good ones, you see," he said, shaking them out and 
blowing into them as you would into a pair of gloves ? " Yery good ones 
indeed." 

I acknowledged this at once, and requested him to fold them up 
and give me the change. 

" Change," he said, picking up the piece for the first time, and with 
renewed astonishment. " The change of this !" he repeated, coming from 
behind the counter and looking at me from every point of view, " I can't 
do it," he concluded. " I can't do it." 

" So I was reluctantly obliged to travel farther and after two more 
applications, I at last succeeded in finding that wonder of St. Johns, the 
man who could change a five dollar piece." 

Now we know and of our own knowledge, too, that this was all a joke 
of our leader, and we know also, that although there may be no "change" 
in the friendship of the good people of St. Johns, their store-keepers 
are not so destitute of one of the most essential requisites in business. 

However, we gave our friend due credit for his inventive powers, 
laughed at his joke as heartily as if it were a true one, and then turned 
our attention to the more serious matter on hand. We had by this 
time reached the fishing ground without accident except that one of 



A T R I P T N E W F U K I) I. A N , 55. 

our party who was ambitious of displaying his proficiency in rowing, to 
use a nautical term, "caught a crab" that is to say missed a stroke and 
was in imminent danger of falling overboard. 

Our hooks were soon baited, and every one with a line in his hand 
eagerly expecting a bite, was hanging over the side of the boat. Hardly 
a minute elapsed before there were bites all round, and as we were deter- 
mined that our fish would be well hooked, we pulled with a force that 
knocked us sprawling over our seats and tangled our lines so badly that it 
was nearly half an hour before they were clear. We gained some experi- 
ence, however, from this and went to work the next time with more cool- 
ness and with such success that in the course of two or three hours we 
had captured among our party of eight about six hundred fish. It is 
somewhat strange that the biggest cod was hooked by the poorest fisher- 
man in the party, and still stranger that our leader caught the least in 
quantity and the smallest in size. Although considerably mortified by the 
result, he did not, however, appear in the least crestfallen, but told us 
with an air of undiminished authority that after all there was little sport 
in fishing for cod. " Salmon, my boys, salmon's the fish for me ; there's 
more sport in catching one salmon than twenty cod." 

" There is little sport," said another of the party who had been 
about as unsuccessful as om* leader, and who was ready to take part 
with him in depreciating the fish — " there is little sport in catching fish 
that bite so feebly, you can't feel them half the time. And then," he 
added, " when you have them hooked, you are not certain that they 
are on they make so little resistance." 

We all acknowledged the truth of this, for many of us had actually 
hooked them when we were perfectly unconscious of having had a bite. 
In fishing for cod, it is absolutely necessary, therefore, to draw your line 



56 ATRirTO NKAVFOUNDLAND. 

as tight as possible without disturbing the sinker, if you woukl know 
when the fisli are at the bait. 

Our return to the ship was like an ovation ; we exhibited our prize 
with all the pride of conquerors and for sevei-al days afterwards there was 
nothing heard on board the steamer but stories of our wonderful fishing 
exploits. We had cod for breakfast, cod for dinner, and cod for tea ; 
we never wearied of cod — it was in our thoughts by day and our dreams 
by night ; nobody dared to mention the fish in the presence of any one 
of us, if he was not prepared to hear the account of our adventure over 
again perhaps for the twentieth time, and with numerous additions and 
improvements. Our fishing excursion off St. Johns will long be remem- 
bered by the passengers of the James Adger and particularly by those 
who were participators in the sports of that memorable day. 




STACKING THE COD. 




CHAPTER YI. 

^o If®]EIlf §1 ^s we have stated is the principal fish depot on 
"^Y^^ the south-eastern part of the island, and is the residence of the 
£%^ wealthiest mercliauts ; but there are a large number of fishing 
towns and villages in its vicinity. Among these is the romantic 
and picturesque village of Quidi Vidi which had at the time of our visit 
a population of about four hundred. As it is not more than a mile and 
a half from St. Johns it is a place of almost constant resort, for the peo- 
ple regard it as a sort of natural curiosity and always speak of it to 
strangers as such. Its houses are of the poorest description, hai'dly afford- 
ing a protection against the inclemency of the weather ; but those who 
inhabit them are a healthy, strong and hardy race for whom the elements 
seem to have no terrors. 

The harbor is about six hundred yards in length, between two and 



58 A T R I P T O N E W F U N D L A N D . 

three hundred feet wide, and is surrounded by steep hills, which rise to a 
height of four hundred feet above the level of the sea. The entrance 
from the sea is through a deep cut in the mountain, and the channel or 
passage is only wide enough for fishing smacks. Here, while the storm 
rages with terrible fury without, and the whole coast is lined with breakers 
that dash the spray half way up the bleak sides of the mountain barrier, 
everything is at rest, so completely is it sheltered from the elements. 
Here, too, in this quiet little village, shut out from all knowledge of the 
busy world three or four generations of men have lived and died, their 
chief occupation fishing for cod along the shore within two or three miles 
of their huts, or hunting the seal among the icebergs off the coast of 
Newfoundland and Labrador. Their life is one of peril and hardships, 
and still, like that of the sailor, it has a strong fascination for them. 
When not employed in fishing or hunting the seal, a large number reside 
in more comfortable dwellings in St. Johns, where those who can obtain 
employment, work on the wharves and at other kinds of labor. 

Portugal Cove, a fishing station with a population of between one 
and two thousand, is situated about ten miles to the north of St. Johns. 
The road to it lies through a magnificent tract of country, diversified with 
all the beauties of mountain, lake and river. We had heard a great deal 
about Portugal Cove ever since our arrival, and made up our minds to 
visit it before our departure. Having procured a wagon from Mr. Tous- 
saint, the gentlemanly proprietor of the Hotel de Paris, who kindly volun- 
teered to act as our guide, we started early in the morning, and in the 
course of a couple of hours reached our place of destination. Three or 
four miles from St. Johns we came within sight of twenty-mile pond, 
which is one of the finest sheets of water in this part of the island. Its 
shores are covered with dense woods, extending down even to the water's 
edge, except about half a mile of its southern extremity, where a fine 



A TKIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 59 

beach of sand and pebbles has been formed. The road extends for almost 
a mile along the boarders of this lake, and then leads aAvay off among 
the mountains, from the sides of which we occasionally caught glimpses 
of it, as it lay like an immense mirror, fringed by its evergreen forest. 

The sky looked cloudy and threatening when we started, and we 
had hardly proceeded half-way on our journey, when the mists which had 
been hovering over the hills, swept down upon us in a drenching shower. 
It was ouly a shower, however, and as the mists dissolved we were more 
than repaid for what we suffered by the magnificent sight that buret upon 
our view. Above us, on either side of the road, towered the mountains 
to the height of five or six hundred feet, their sides marked by deep seams 
and rugged with gigantic rocks that threatened every moment to fall and 
sweep, like an avalanche, upon us. The valley lay beneath, rejoicing in 
all the verdure of summer, and fragments of mist floated over it like gos- 
samer webs. Here and there, at irregular intervals, immense boulders 
stood up amid woods of spruce and pine, their gray summits forming a 
striking contrast with the deep green of the foilage. It is hardly neces- 
sary to say we enjoyed the scene, but our enjoyment was of a rather noisy 
character, and astonished the natives somewhat. Away we swept, with 
break-neck speed, down the steep mountain sides, and dashed through the 
valley as if pursued by furies. Now we crept like snails up precipitous 
hills, and when we reached their summits awoke their echoes with deafen- 
ing cheers. We sang the praises of the bob-tailed nag in tune and out 
of tune, and earnestly solicited " somebody " to bet upon the gray. The 
tearful Susanna was frequently requested to cease her weeping on our 
account, and the natural deficiencies of Uncle Ned were not forgotten. 
But, as the old adage says, it is a long lane that has no turn, and this we 
found to be equally true of our ride. At the end of ten miles, Portugal 
Cove broke suddenly upon our view as we emerged from a valley. The 



GO A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Cove is iu the form of a crescent, and is about a mile and a half in length. 
Opposite to it, and at a distance of three miles, lies Belleisle, one of the 
most singularly formed islands about Newfoundland. It is about four 
miles long, one in width, and rises perfectly perpendicular out of the water 
to the height of two and three hundred feet. 

Portugal Cove is inhabited entirely by fishermen, and is one of the 
oldest settlements on the eastern coast. Although employed four or five 
months in the year cod fishing, their most lucrative occupation is hunting 
the seal. Their fishing season Ijegins in May, and ends about the 1st of 
December. From December till March they have little or nothing to do, 
unless they feel disposed to work as laborers. On the first of March the 
seal hunting or fishing, as it is called, begins and continues till May. The 
vessels employed in the seal fisheries vary in size from ninety to one hun- 
dred and sixty tons, and are protected along the bows with a sheathing of 
iron. These vessels are owned by individuals or companies, and are capa- 
ble of accommodating from twenty to seventy men, according to their size. 
Each of these pays eleven dollars for his berth, and at the termination of 
the voyage one-half the proceeds is given to the owner or owners of the 
vessel, and the other half equally divided among the fishermen. 

The seal is found principally upon icebergs, and is either shot or 
killed with a heavy pole with which it is struck on the head. The prin- 
cipal varieties are the harps, the hoods, the howks, the bedlamers, and 
square flippers. The square flippers are as large as a good sized bull, and 
their pelt, which includes the skin and fat, weighs from five to eight hun- 
dred pounds. The hoods are the most difficult to kill, as they are very 
ferocious and run, or rather paddle, over the ice as fast as a man can run. 
When attacked with the pole, they will sometimes seize it with their teeth 
and fling it forty or fifty feet from them, with great force ; then turning 
on the daring hunter, they force him to seek safety in flight. The harps 



A TRIP TO NEW y <) U X D I. AND. 61 

are considered most valuable for their fat, and tlie hoods for their skins ; 
they are also easier killed than the hoods, and make less resistance when 
attacked. The fat is separated from the skin and placed in large vats, 
in which it is allowed to remain during the summer, the heat of which 
converts it into oil. This is ratlier a slow process, but it is considered the 
best, as it preserves its purity. The refuse or blubber sold for manure is 
said to be as great a fertilizer as guano, and commends itself to farmers, 
particularly on account of its cheapness. It is sold for a dollar a cart 
load, which is equal to about five barrels. 

In a voyage the seal fishers sometimes run a distance of five and six 
hundred miles from St. Johns, and are absent from six weeks to two and 
three months. About four years ago a fleet of over one hundred vessels 
was wrecked during one season, but the loss of life was not so serious as 
might have been expected. Not more than twelve or fourteen of the 
fishers perished, the rest having made their escape to the land, some in 
their boats and some on floes of ice. A party of six had got on one of 
these and were several days in reaching the land. These casualties, how- 
ever, occur but seldom and are not attended with such disastrous effects 
as one might suppose. 

The seal fisheries of Newfoundland, although very precarious, are 
more profitable perhaps than any other pursuit in the world — that is to 
those who are enabled to invest a sufficient capital in them. It at 
present employs upwards of four hundred vessels of from eighty to two 
hundred tons, and fifteen thousand men, while the yearly receipts amount 
to about two millions of dollars. 

On Wednesday evening, the 15th of August, a banquet was given 
to the public authorities of St. Johns — that is, to the members of the 
Executive and Legislative Councils — for it has no municipal government. 
The military band of the city was in attendance, and discoursed some of 



62 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

their best music during the evening-. The entertainment took place in the 
after-cabin of the James Adger, and was got up in the most creditable 
manner. Conspicuous among the ornaments which decorated the cabin 
were the American and English flags blended together, typifying the 
connection of the two nations through the agency of the electric tele- 
graph. About one hundred and fifty persons participated in the festiv- 
ities of the evening, including the company from New York. Mr. Cooper 
presided, and Mr. Field officiated as Yice President. When the various 
good things had been thoroughly discussed, the cloth was removed and 
the speaking commenced. 

Now gentlemen, said Mr. Field, you will please fill your glasses for 
the first regular toast. The request was immediately complied with, and 
the health of the Queen was drunk with three cheers. Then followed the 
second, " the President of the United States," which was received with 
an enthusiasm by the company and their guests that seemed to know no 
bounds. Three cheers, and such cheers as few raonarchs receive, were 
given for the First Magistrate of the great republic, and then three more, 
twice repeated, followed by a " tiger" that astounded the Newfound- 
landers. We felt that although among hospitable friends, we were in a 
foreign land, and that no matter what political prejudices any of us 
might entertain against the President, he was still the representative of 
republican principles, and as such entitled to our highest respect. There 
were many there besides Americans, who if allowed their free choice 
between the two governments, would have little difficulty in making the 
selection. We may be mistaken, but we think there was something more 
than a mere compliment in the hearty response which was made to the 
second toast. The day may not be far distant that will see Newfound- 
land bound in closer connection with our republic than can be accom- 
plished by the electric telegraph. 



A T R T P T O X FMV F o u x n r. A N n . 63 

The whole of that evening was spent in speech making and toasting, 
and " the wee short Iiours ayont the twal," arrived before the festivities 
were brought to a close. 

On Friday evening the 17th, a ball was given to our company by the 
authorities of Newfoundland. It took place in the Colonial Building, 
the rooms of which were tastefully decorated with evergreens for the 
occasion, and draped with the American and English flags. We had a 
fair opportunity of seeing the beauties of St. Johns — -and they certainly 
realized all that has been claimed for them in personal attractions. It 
would be difficult to select any in particular among such a galaxy, and 
we will not therefore make the attempt. The ball commenced at nine 
o'clock, and did not break np till three in the morning, when our company 
dispersed, well pleased with the manner in which they had been enter- 
tained. 

Saturday, the 18th, was the day fixed for our departure, but still we 
were unwilling to leave till we had made some return for the hospitality 
we had received from the people of St. Johns. The Company, therefore, 
invited over two hundred of the principal inhabitants of the city on an 
excursion about ten miles outside the harbor, and about twelve o'clock 
we set out with one of the most pleasant and sociable parties that was 
ever collected on the deck of a steamer. The day was as fine as could 
be desired, and the scenery of the coast magnificent. We saw the 
"spouting rock" as it is called, which is one of the greatest natural curi- 
osities in the island and perhai)s in the world. The rock itself is not 
more than thirty feet above the surface of the water, and has a cavity in 
its centre which runs through it to the base, and which is from six to 
seven feet in diameter. A small stream of fresh water flows from an 
overhanging hill into this cavity, and when the tide is out finds its way 
through an opening in the rock into the sea. When the tide is coming 



64 



A TRIP TO >r E W F o r N' D L A X n , 



ill, the waves rush with siicli force into this hole as to throw the fresh 
water in the cavity to a height of twenty and sometimes forty feet. 

After a pleasant trip of two or three hours along the coast we returned 
with our guests to the harbor, where we parted with many mutual regrets. 
Cheer after cheer was given and returned, handkerchiefs were waved, and 
when we could hear each other no longer, the cannon thundered out our 
adieus. While passing through the Narrows, Mr. Huested, who was 
engaged by the company to blast the Merlin rock, which lies right in the 
way of vessels entering the harbor, and which is very dangerous to those 
of the largest class, got up a grand submarine explosion for our especial 
entertaiumeut. We had hardly passed over the rock when the explosion 
took place, throwing up a vast body of water to the height of sixty or 
seventy feet, and shaking the mountains on either side like an earthquake. 
Our vessel trembled with the concussion, and the spray fell in a shower 
upou the deck, sprinkling a number of our passengers, to the great amuse- 
ment of those who escaped. On clearing the Narrows a parting stilute 
was given as our bow turned in the direction of Port au Basque, where 
ire expected to find the Sarah L. Bryant awaiting our return. 





SrOTTTING ROCK, NEAR ST. JOHNS. 





r H A P '1^ E 11 Y I I . 

'^B©T[JT fivf^ o'clock on the morning- of the 20th of Angnst, 
.<J we came within sight of Cape Ray, and abont seven o'clock 
fl^'T were sufficient!)' near to Port au Basque to discern objects 
through the telescope. Some of our company went aloft, and 
gave us the cheering intelligence that they saw a large vessel lying behind 
the high rocks whicli protected the entrance to the harbor, but we were 
afraid to hope lest we should be doomed to a second disappointment. 
There was no doubt, however, as to a vessel being there, for she had been 
seen also through the telescope ; but it was confidently believed by some 
that it would prove to be the l<'rench frigate, Iphigenie, which, it was said, 
+ook a northern course after leaving Halifax. In fact, every one, even 



66 A T R I P T O N K W F () U N n L A N n 

even the most sanguine, feared to hope. While we were speculating on 
the probability of its being the Sarah L. Bryant, a small row boat was 
observed approaching our steamer, and in less than half an hour we were 
within hailing distance. Among those in it was Mr. Sluyter, the captain 
of the Victoria, which could also be seen lying in the harbor. Mr. Field, 
who, with several others, was on the bow of the steamer anxiously await- 
ing their approach, now hailed them. 

" Has the bark arrived ?" he cried out, in a stentorian voice. 

A wave of the hat was the only reply ; but it was enough, and one 
wild, enthusiastic hurra broke from those on board the James Adger. 

" Hold on, hold on," said Mr. Field, " wait till we are certain." Then 
repeating his question, he was answered in the affirmative. The company 
were all impatience to give vent to their enthusiasm, but they restrained 
their feelings for a few moments longer. 

" When did she arrive ?" he asked. 

" On Wednesday," was the reply. 

This was sufficient, we were amply repaid for the anxiety we suffered, 
and three such cheers as followed the glad tidings has seldom been heard. 
After all, we had not come from New York on a fruitless errand, and we 
would yet, if favored a little longer, be enabled to lay the cable which is 
to be the first link in connecting the Old World with the New, and bring- 
ing the people of both continents into instant communication with each 
other. After all, we could tell our friends on our return that we had 
accomplished the great undertaking, and that the first submarine telegraph 
had been laid on this side of the Atlantic. 

We had now reached the entrance to the harbor, and could distinctly 
see the masts of the long expected vessel towering above the rocks, with 
the stars and stripes flying from her mizzen peak. In a few minutes more 
we gave her a salute from our cannon, and ere the echoes died away 



ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 07 

among the distant hills, the little Victoria responded again and again, till 
she was completely enveloped in a cloud of sraokc. It was a grand sight 
for the people of Port au Basque, the quiet of whose little village was 
never before disturbed with such boisterous rejoicing. A numl)er of 
children were amusing themselves on the side of the hills which bound 
the harbor, and enjoying the scene before them with the greatest zest, but 
the first report set them scampering like a flock of frightened deer, and 
fearing a second attack, they disappeared like magic. In a few minutes 
we were anchored alongside the bark, and all was excitement and bustle 
among the passengers. We all wanted to go ashore, but as the nnmbei- 
of boats was not equal to the demand, many had to remain on Ijoard. It 
was soon ascertained that it would be impossible to commence the work 
of laying the cable for two or three days, so that there would l)e an 
opportunity for every one to gratify their desire. The Sarah L. Bryant 
had, it appeared, very tempestuous weather, and for twenty-six hours was 
exposed to all the fury of a terrible gale, during which her hatches were 
battened and she was running under bare poles. 

We took advantage of the first opportunity that presented to go 
ashore, and after a perilous passage of half a mile during which the boat 
was nearly capsized by one of our heavy friends who would persist in 
sitting at the side instead of in the middle — ^we reached terra firma thank- 
ful in having escaped with dry clothes. Our friend, as may be supposed, 
did not escape our indignation for the danger to which he had exposed 
us ; but he was too much of a philosopher to care for it, and while lie 
had his life-preserver which he always carried under his arras he felt per- 
fectly indifferent to the dangers of the deep. 

Before reaching Port au Basque we had to run into a smaller harbor 
on the side of which it is built. This harbor is called Channel Arm, and 
is deep enough for vessels of two or three hundred tons. When we reached 



68 A T R I P T N E W F U X n I, A X n . 

what is called the wharf, we had to ascend a rough v.-ooden ladder, eight 
or ten feet high, fastened in the rock, from the top of which we conld see 
the village, consisting of forty or fifty frame houses, mostly two stories 
higli. Of these, about half a dozen were in a group, but the remainder 
were scattered over an area of half a mile. They were all constructed 
without the slightest regard to modern improvements, with one exception, 
and that, it is to be presumed, belonged to one of the upper ten. It was 
certainly the most aristocratic we saw, and might pass on the outskirts of 
New York as a neat, unpretending little cottage. What struck us par- 
ticularly in the aspect of this place was the rough, uneven nature of the 
ground, which was marked by hills, deep canons and holes. Patches of 
turf in some places hid the rocks from view, while here and there beau- 
tiful little wild flowers, of which we formed boquets for our lady passen- 
gers, sprang up among the crevices. With all the wildness of its scenery, 
its bleak inhospitable coast, repelling rather than inviting the voyager, 
there was yet in its very wildness something fascinating and romantic to 
the lover of adventure. The town, if it may be dignified by the title, was 
situated on a rising ground, affording a view of the country to the distance 
of six or seven miles. To the north of it rises in solitary grandeur the 
towering promontory of Cape Ray to the height of fifteen hundred feet, 
while on the south is the broad Atlantic. 

The surrounding country is well watered with miniature lakes, in 
whose crystal depths salmon trout are found in the greatest abundance. 
The only signs of vegetation were a sort of grass or moss and low stunted 
bushes, on which grows a brown berry. These and a few wild flowers 
appeared to be the only productions of this part of the island. There 
were -a few gardens to the houses, but no horses, cows, or cattle of any 
description were to be seen. The only article seemed to be codfish, and 
that was piled up in stacks, which at a distance bore some resemblance 



A TRIP TO X K W F n f X n I, A X I) . 



(iy 



/' 







f,r 






rOr.T AU BASQUE. 

to hay ricks. The delusion, however, soon vanished on a closer inspection, 
for there was no mistaking the peculiar smell. 

The first inhabitant we met on landing was an old, rough, weather- 
beaten fisherman, who appeared to be glued to the spot with astonishment 
at our sudden appearance. We made several inquiries of him, but finding 
it impossible to obtain the desired information, we left him to pursue our 
investigations in other quarters. Tiie conversation, however, was so cha- 
racteristic we give it verbatim ef literafim. 

" What," we inquired, " is the population of this place ?" 

" Eh ! what !" said he after a pause, during which he surveyed us 
from head to foot long enough to count even the buttons. 

" How many people live here ?" 

" Tliey aint all home now." 

" But can you not tell us their number, are there two or three hun- 
dred ?" 



*10 ATRIPTO NEWFOUND I, AND. 

" Oh ; tliere's a great many." 

" Well, where are they all ?" we asked, looking in the direction of 
the village, which appeared to be entirely deserted. 

" They are all ont," he replied. 

On a hill, a short distance off, we perceived about fifty persons who 
had assembled there, when our steamship came to off the entrance to 
the harbor. They were principally women and children, but they did not 
seem desirous of a nearer acquaintance with us at that particular time 
although we afterwards found them very friendly. The men were rather 
prepossessing than otherwise. They were about the medium height, with 
clear blue eyes, light hair, regular features, and a frank, good natured 
expression that at once gained your confidence. They are simple in their 
manners, and their information n\)oa every subject but codfishing is most 
limited. 

" What do you do here ?" we inquired of another. " What do you 
all work at in this place ?" 

" We are all fishermen," he said. " We all catch cod." 

" You are not all employed in catching cod ?" 

" All of us, excepting two merchants." 

" Well, and what do they do ?" 

" They buy cod of the fishermen. There are their stacks there," he 
added, pointing to the heap of codfish of which we have already spoken. 

" What do you live on chiefly ?" 

" Cod." 

In fact, as we have said, they appeared to know nothing about any- 
thing else ; they maintained themselves and tlieir families liy fishing, and 
the principal portion of their daily food consisted of cod. 

On the arrival of the James Adger at Port an Basque, we found 
that the mechanical arningemonts on board the Sarah L. Bryant, for tlie 



A TRI P TO N E W KO U NDL A ND. Yl 

laying of the cable, were not completed. It was resolved, under these 
circumstances, that the steamer should go to Cape North and select the 
best and nearest portion of the coast to Cape Ray, the point of connec- 
tion. Mr. Field and some sixteen or eighteen of the passengers remained 
at Port au Basque till the return of the steamer, and as we were among 
those we took advantage of the earliest opportunity to visit the bark, 
which was about five hundred tons burthen, and strongly built. The cable 
itself weighed four hundred tons, and was seventy-four miles long, while 
the distance between the points of connection on Newfoundland and Cape 
Breton is sixty-five. The extra nine iriiles were allowed to make up for 
the inequalities in the bottom of the ocean, and any variation that might 
lie produced in the direct line by the wind or current^;. The cable lay in 
immense coils in the hold of the vessel, and the operation of coiling alone 
took fourteen days. The machinery was very simple in its construction, 
and was the same that was used in laying the Mediterranean cable. The 
cable as it came out of the hold passed over iron rollers, and from these 
between vertical guide rollers, from which it passed again over two large 
wheels, each eight feet in diameter. As these revolved it was thrown out 
on a cast iron saddle, over the stern of the vessel. The wheels were sup- 
plied with four V)reaks, worked by two long levers and two compressors, 
wiiich were employed to prevent the cable from surging as it passed round 
the wheels, as well as to prevent it from running off by its own weight. 
These completed the whole of the machinery, and it was found to work 
most successfully. 

The cable was manufactured by Messrs. W. Kupert & Co., at thsir 
submarine cable manufactory, Morden Wharf East Greenwich, London. 
The process of making it is so very simple that it will be easily under- 
stood by every one. Tlie copper wires of which there are three, and each 
of which is about as thick as a knitting needle — are first insulated with 



72 



A TRIP TO XEWFOUNDLAND. 



two coatings of gutta percha. They are then bound with hemp yarn so 
as to form a perfect circular rope or cable, the yarn Ijeing previously soak- 
ed in a preparation of Stockholm tar, pitch, oil and tallow. Over this 
again is wound the outside covering of twelve, No. 4 guage, iron wires, 
which besides the protection they afford give the whole cable great 
strength and durability. The process of manufacturing with the exception 
of the insulation of the copper wires with gutta percha is carried on at 
the same time, by extensive machinery erected for that purpose, and by 
means of which cables can be made of any continuous length and with 
any number of wires that may be desired. That portion of the cable 
which connects immediately with the shore is generally galvanized to pre- 
serve it from the corroding action of the atmosphere. We saw a piece of 
the Dover cable which had been taken up after lying in the water about 
four years and which was as perfect as when first laid down. The gulf 
cable, on board the Sarah L. Bryant was about an inch in diameter, and 
a'lout the same size as it is represented in the engraving. 




SUBMARINE TELEGltAPH CABLE. 



During the absence of the Jumes Adger our little company of four- 
teen formed themselves into parties of from two to six, and amused them- 
selves in various ways as their tastes or inclinations dictated. It was 
about eleven o'clock when we left the steamer and before our boat touched 



A T K 1 P r O N K W F U N 1) L A N D . IB 

the wharf she had cleared the harbor, aud in a few hours no trace of her 
was visible except the long black line of smoke that she left behind on the 
horizon. We made our way to the most respectable looking residence, 
which belonged to Mr. Waddle, the principal codfish merchant in the 
village. We found him exceedingly courteous and desirous of doing all 
in his power to render our stay as pleasant as possible. His cook who was 
quite a character in his way prepared a dinner of codfish for us, which 
with the addition of some excellent bread and butter proved very palat- 
able. He was a genius in his particular line that same cook, and consid- 
ering the limited means at his disposal made a display on the table that 
would have astonished Soyer himself. Out of a dish of huge dimensions 
he supplied the company with fish, meat and fowl, and when we thought 
the stock exhausted he exhibited before our wondering eyes ham and eggs, 
boiled potatoes and fried do., all blended together in an amalgamation 
more perfect than abolitionist ever dreamed of. There was no limit to the 
supply, and although over a dozen mouths aud twice that number of 
hands were engaged in the work of demolition, the impression they made 
was so trifling that it only appeared to provoke his contempt. Our host, 
Mr. Waddle, who was very fond of indulging in a joke, took occasion 
frequently to inform us that we were " eating nothing " and expressed the 
hope that we were not in delicate health. It might be inferred from this 
that we had not been doing full justice to his hospitality ; but if an aver- 
age of five or six large cups of cofifee and solids in proportion to each 
person is not justice, then we know not the meaning of the term. It was 
certainly more than any boarding-house or hotel keeper in New York 
would desire to receive. 

Port au Basque as we have intimated is a very small village, and 
being a small village the accommodations were of a somewhat limited 
character. They had never anticipated such an inundation, and as our 



74 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

arrival in such numbers was unexpected they were not so well provicled as 
either they or ourselves would have desired. Their deficiency became 
alarmingly apparent as the night came on, for it was found that there 
were only three extra beds and each of these witli the most rigid economy 
of space could not be made to hold more than two at the very utmost. 
Those who were not so fortunate as to secure one of these in the early 
part of the evening were obliged to sleep as well as circumstances would 
permit, on the floor. It was some consolation, however, to them to know 
that there was no danger of their falling out of lied, even if it was a little 
too hard for their feelings. 

In the midst of these pressing necessities pillows were in the great- 
est demand, and blankets if put up at auction would have brought any 
price. Necessity, like a bad attorney, it has been said, knows no law, 
and this remark might be applied with equal truth to some of the mem- 
bers of our company on that, the first night of our visit to Port an Bas- 
que. It is with sorrow we state, but as we are compelled to do so by a 
strict regai'd for the facts of our narrative we cannot shrink from the per- 
formance of our duty — it is then with feelings of sorrow we state that we 
saw by the pale glimmer of the lamp two of our companions in the dead 
hour of the night stealing a blanket from a third, while that third reposed 
in the unconsciousness of sleep. And we may also state that they made 
an attempt to deprive another of a pillov/, in which however, they failed 
as the sleeper with wise foresight had tied one of the strings by which the 
cover was fastened, to his wrist. 

Notwithstanding our many troubles we slept as soundly as if we were 
on beds of down, and arose the following morning with renewed strength 
and appetites that must have commanded the respect of our cook and 
satisfied the exacting hospitality of our worthy landlord. 

But if we fared poorly with regard to sleeping accommodations there 



A TRIP TO N !•: W F O U N D I, A X I) . 



75 




GOING ON A DEEU IRINT. 



were others of our company who were in a still worse condition, and whose 
sufferings will not fail to excite the sympathy of the benevolent and com- 
passionate. The morning of our arrival, as we have said, we formed our- 
selves into small parties, some of which went off to Cape Ray ten miles 
distant on an expedition of discovery, some on a fishing excursion, while 
others started off on a wild deer hunt eleven or twelve miles into the 
interior of the island. 

The latter were most sanguine of success and confidently expected 
that they would be unable to carry home the spoils of the chase ; but 
they were doomed to a grievous disappointment, and if we may judge from 
their experience of hunting deer in Newfouiulland, it will be a long time 
before they are induced to go on a second eTlterprize of the kind. One of 
the most enthusiastic, but whose ideas of deer huntin«- were of a rather 



76 A T R I P T X K \V F O U N [) I, AND. 

singular character, in addition to his rifle, was armed with a tooth brush 
and a bottle of perfume, while with praiseworthy precaution he provided 
luraself with a pair of kid gloves to preserve his hands from the onslaught 
of mosquitoes. It was certainly a grotesque hunting party, and will 
furnish material for many a good joke to the villagers of Port au Basque. 
Eleven or twelve miles over a perfect wilderness of rock and bog, inter- 
s|3ersed occasionally with stunted shrubbery, and no deer to be seen, was 
anything but encouraging ; and to add to their disappointment, they had 
rather improvidently forgotten to furnish themselves with sufficient pro- 
visions. They started about one o'clock, and long before night their 
eatables were all exhausted, and their spirits — of both kinds — began to 
give out. Only one codfish, and that of rather diminutive dimensions, 
remained ; and as there were some five or six to divide it among, the 
prospect of the hunters was somewhat gloomy. In this dilemma a council 
of war was held, at which it was proposed that the fish should be kept 
for breakfast the following morning ; but their necessities were pressing ; 
and it was finally decided that it should be demolished there and then, 
and that the morrow should provide for itself That night they passed on 
the side of a hill, and the following morning, sadder but wiser men, they 
turned their faces towards Port au Basque, which they reached about 
noon, in an almost famishing condition. One rushed in an almost frantic 
state into Mr. Waddell's grocery, and procured some crackers and cheese, 
while another invested a portion of his funds in a dozen herrings, which 
it was found had not been in their native element for seven or eight days. 

" I want you," said he to our friend the cook — " I want you to fry 
these for us immediately." 

" What are they ?" said the cook, eyeing them very suspiciously. 

" Fish of course — don't you see — and we want them done as nice as 
possible." 



A TRIP TO NKWFOUNDLAND. 



7T 



" I can't do them for you," he replied, " we never do such fish here." 

" And why not,'' said the knight of the perfume bottle, for it was he, 
— " why not." 

" Well, because I don't like their looks." 

" You don't, eh ? And pray what's the reason. They're good, fresh 
fish, are they not ?" 

" Well, they may have been fresh enough once, but that is about a 
week ago." 

" A week ago !" the knight replied in unfeigned astonishment. "Why 
they were sold to me for fresh fish." 

" Well, sir, all I have got to say is," rejoined the cook, " that if they 
were bought for fresh fish it is you that was sold. I can't do them sir. I 
can't do them, and if I tried they wouldn't hold together in the pau." 

This was sufficient ; the kuight of the perfume bottle was reluctantly 




THE lUNTEl'.S RETIIRN. 



•jg A TRIP TO XEWFOrNnLAXD. 

obliged to acknowledge that he had been " sold," and made a resolution 
there and then that he would never even under the most pressing neces- 
sities attempt to buy fish again. The cheese and crackers, however, were 
good, and served to satisfy the cravings of the party till dinner was pre- 
pared. As a deer hunt the affair was certainly a lamentable failure ; but 
our readers must not suppose that there were no deer on the island, for 
we were told that about thirty miles in the interior they are to be found 
in abundance. There is one lesson which may be learned from it with 
profit by all who may hereafter go a hunting in Newfoundland, and that 
is, always to take plenty of provisions with you, ignore the existence of kid 
gloves, and leave your perfume bottles at home. 

The party who went on a tour of discovery to Cape Ray were also 
compelled to encamp on the hill side, as they found it utterly impossible 
to return to the village before night fall. But if their bed was not so 
desirable as they might have wished, they were more than compensated 
for that and the other inconveniences to which they were subjected, in the 
magnificence of the scenery by which they were surrounded. From the 
summit of Cape Ray they had an extended view of the interior of the 
island which they described in such glowing colors on their return that 
several parties were about being organized for a similar excursion. Far 
as the eye could reach there was a never-ending succession of hills and 
mountains, and embosomed in these were vallies that might rival the finest 
ever seen from Alpine summits. Tliey had a wild, weird beauty that 
reminded one of some of the scenes in Ossian, and if peopled by the 
beings of his fancy the picture would have been complete. But there 
was no living thing visible, and in that vast solitude not a sound was 
heard to break the stillness of the scene. Nature held supreme dominion, 
for as yet the virgin soil was unliroken, and there was not even the trace 
of a habitation to tell that a human being had ever lived there. With 



A TRIP TO N K W FO U N D L A N n. '79 

such a sight beneath them it is not to be wondered at if our friends took 
no note of time, and if night overtook them on their return. They were 
determined not to leave before sunset, and they were amply rewarded for 
their delay by the new beauties which were revealed to them. As the 
sun descended the heavens he threw over the scene a flood of golden light, 
which turned to fire as he disappeared below the horizon. Soon the grey 
mists of evening crept up the hill sides concealing the valleys from the 
view, and bringing out in stronger relief the bleak and barren summits of 
the surrounding mountains. Then, even the mountains became shadowy 
and indistinct as the night came on, the valleys with their lakes and 
rivers and evergreen forests disappeared as if under the wand of a potent 
magician, the golden light, that flooded hill and dale was gone and every- 
thing was lost in the darkness of the night. 

Our friends, as we have said, slept on the hill side, having concluded 
to remain after two or three unsuccessful attempts to reach Cape Ray 
Cove, where a few fishermen resided with their families. They had dis- 
missed their guides who stopped at the first habitation they could find 
with the intention of spending the night there, and of returning to the 
party in the morning. But the people of the house having no knowledge 
of the arrival of the Jafnes Adger at Port au Basque, and having in the 
early part of the day seen the guides in company with our friends, con- 
cluded that there was some fearful mystery about the matter which should 
be explained at once. They put no confidence whatever in the story of 
the steamer having arrived, and actually believed that a murder had been 
committed. They accordingly set out at once on the search for the dead 
bodies, and about three o'clock in the morning came upon the spot where 
our friends lay, wrapt in all the unconciousness of sleep. The sleepers 
were soon aroused by the barking of a dog that accompanied the fish- 
ermen, and one of them seizing an axe with which he had armed him- 



80 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

self before leaving Port au Basque and which lay beside him, prepared to 
defend himself against what he believed to be a midnight attack of Indians. 
Two of the fishermen who were all eagerness to congratulate him on his 
being still in the land of the living, met with a warmer reception than 
they deserved, and like many before them, would have suffered by their 
friendship if they had not somewhat hastily retreated. The matter how- 
ever was soon explained, and the whole party returned to the house of 
the fishermen where they were provided with a more comfortable lodging 
for the remainder of the night, and a tolerably good breakfast in the 
morning. 




THE VICTORIA, TOWING THE CABLE-SHIP FROM PORT AU BASQUE, TO 
CAPE RAY COVE. 




CHAPTER YIII. 

James Adger returned on Tuesday evening, the 21st, to 
Port au Basque, and there was a grand reunion of the com- 
pany. Those who had gone in the steamer to Cape Xorth had 
wonderful stories to tell us of the scenery and still more won- 
derful accounts to give us of their fishing exploits. Codfish such as fisher- 
men never dreamed of in their most extravagant moments were captured 
by them, but when asked for the proofs of their skill they were nowhere 




82 A TRIP TO XEWFOUNDLAND. 

to be found. Six feet was a medium length and a hundred pounds a mere 
trifle in measuring their size and weight ; but as they were iish stories we 
were all willing to allow a fair latitude and forgave them for the imposition. 

That evening, it is almost needless to say, we slept aboard, and our 
sleep was not disturbed by any fear that our blankets or pillows would be 
stolen. The following morning the Sarah L. Bryant was towed by the 
Yictoria up to Cape Ray Cove, which was decided upon as the starting- 
place, being nearer by five miles to Cape North. There was also another 
great advantage it possessed over Port au Basque : it had a fine sandy 
beach, which experience has proved, forms a better and safer resting 
place for the cable than rocks. Once it becomes imbedded in sand, it 
may lie there for a century, but if exposed to friction on rocks, it would 
be worn away or cut through in less than a year. 

It was found necessary, to remove the telegraph instruments from 
Port au Basque to the point selected on the beach of Cape Ray Cove, 
which in itself was a most tedious and laborious work. As a number of 
the passengers volunteered their assistance, however, it was expedited, and 
by twelve o'clock everything was transported to the j^lace designated. 
Here it was decided to erect a frame house, which was an undertaking of 
no small magnitude when the limited means and facilities of the place are 
considered. The Victoria was employed in carrying tlve frame and timber 
for the purpose from Port au Basque, but when she arrived with them at 
the Cove it was found that she could not approach within several hundred 
feet of the shore on account of the shallowness of the water. They 
were obliged under these circumstances therefore to form a raft, and on 
it to land all the timber required for the building of the house. The larg- 
est planks were accordingly thrown over the propeller's side, lashed 
together with ropes in the form of a square, and on this was placed the 
frame work, the shingles and the other parts of the structure. 



A TRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 83 

After an hour's bard work, in the course of which the raft gave way 
two or three times, they succeeded in getting all the timber upon it and 
attaching it to a boat pi'epared to tow it ashore. The progress made in 
rowing was rather slow, but they at last succeeded by hard tugging and 
pulling to get it within fifty or sixty yards of the beach. Here however, 
the waves were so high, that it was considered by some exceedingly 
perilous to land in the midst of them ; but as the whole shore was lined 
with breakers and it became evident that thei'e was no other resource 
they went to work in utter defiance of the danger. 

" Row ahead," said Captain Sluyter, who was on the raft with one 
of his crew — " row ahead." The fishermen pulled with might and main, 
and in a few minutes after the order was given they were in the midst of 
the breakers, which threatened every moment to swamp the boat. They 
saw they were in for it now, and as there was no retreating they rowed with 
redoubled energy ; but the raft which had held together better than was 
expected after leaving the side of the steamer, now exhibited strong symp- 
toms of going to pieces, and it had hardly got in among the breakers 
before it parted in the centre, leaving Captain Sluyter on one portion and 
his assistant on the other. Their position became every moment more 
dangerous, as the planks on which they stood were very slightly secured, 
but by the most unremitting exertions they succeeded in keeping them 
together, and in getting safely ashore. A large portion of the timbers 
would doubtless have floated off" with the receding tide had it not been 
for those on shore who rushed up to their armpits in the water, and not 
without some risk hauled them up on the beach. In this they were assist- 
ed by the dogs which seized the planks in their teeth, and although some- 
times over a hundred feet out, swam ashore with them. 

When all the timber was landed the frame of the house was put up, 
and in an incredibly short space of time it was prepared for the reception 



84 A T R I P T O NEWFOUNDLAND. 

of the batteries and other telegraph instruments. A deep hole was dug 
in the centre of the building, and in this was sunk a heavy piece of timber 
about the thickness of an ordinary capstan. A hogshead was placed over 
this again, and the intermediate space between it and the capstan, as we 
shall call it, being filled up it was rendered so firm that it would hold the 
largest vessel in a gale of wind. Around this the cable was to be wound, 
and although the straining produced by it was comparatively slight it was 
considered necessary to have it well secured in case of emergency. 

Everything was now prepared and in readiness for the laying of the 
cable, which was commenced on Thursday, the 23d of August. 

It was almost exciting scene, although attended with little danger to 
those employed in the laying or paying out of the line. The Sarah L. 
Bryant was lying a little less than a mile from the shore, and the steamer 
Victoria about half that distance. A sufficient quantity of the cable was 
taken from her hold and placed in the form of a coil upon two boats, 
lashed together. This was performed with little difficulty ; but the towing 
of it ashore was a most critical task, and required all the attention and 
care of Mr. Canning. It was impossible, without imminent risk, to employ 
either the James Adger or the propeller in this part of the work' as 
neither could approach sufficiently near the shore to land the cable. It 
was therefore decided, as the only safe and practical plan, that the boats 
should be towed ashore by two others manned by fishermen, and some of 
the hands from the steamers. As soon as the cable was placed on board 
the boats, they were taken in tow and then commenced the tedious pro- 
cess of paying it out. Its whole weight was about four tons, and as it 
had to be paid out with more caution than would be required in laying it 
from the ship, at least five hours were consumed in landing and placing it 
in connection with the batteries. 

When the boats having the cable on board commenced paying it out, 



A TRIP TO X K VV F U N D I- A N D . 




TAKING THE RAFT ASHORE. 



they moved so slowly that their progress was hardly perceptible from the 
deck of the steamer. It was known that the work had begun, but, un- 
fortunately, the James Adger was too far off to allow the company on 
board to see what was doing. A portion of the most enthusiastic volun- 
teered their services, and having procured one of the steamer's boats 
assisted in towing. They were determined on sharing the glory of the 
undertaking, that they might hereafter have the gratification of saying 
they were among those who laid the great submarine cable on this side 
of the Atlantic. They worked hard for two or three hours, and did 
not give up till they saw it successfully landed ; then giving three enthu- 



86 A TRIP TO NEWFO U N DL AJS^D. 

siastic cheers, which were answered in tlie same spirit l)y those on shore, 
they started for the steamer with the gratifying intelligence. 

" Now boys," said one of the party, " let us be the first to bring the 
news, and we will call ourselves the Suljniarine Telegraph Express, for the 
occasion." A general assent was given to this proposal, and away they 
started for the James Adger, making their little boat fly over the waves 
in their impatience to reach the vessel. As they passed the propeller one 
of the hands hailed them and asked the news. 

" What is the matter ?" he inquired. " Have they got through ? Is 
all right ?" 

"Yes," they all replied in one voice ; "the cable is laid — all right. 
Let us have three more cheers — hip, hip, hurra." And three more cheers 
were given that made the welkin ring. While passing the Sarah L. Bry- 
ant, the same question was asked, and the response greeted with another 
burst of enthusiasm. In ten minutes they were on board the James 
Adger, where, however, they found the gratifying intelligence had pre- 
ceded them. Little did they imagine then that their efforts would be 
rendered worse than useless, and that in the course of a week one-half the 
cable would be lost. 

The end of the cable having been secured by several coils around the 
capstan, we remained at anchor that night, and made ready to start early 
the following morning. That morning, however, we were prevented by a 
dense fog, which rendered it exceedingly dangerous for us to attempt such 
an undertaking. In fact, if we felt ever so much inclined it would have 
been almost impossible, as we could not discern objects at a distance of a 
hundred yards. We were obliged, therefore, to remain where we were 
during the greater part of the day, anxiously watching every sign of a 
change in the weather. One of our boats, containing seven or eight per- 
sons, ventured out, and having mistaken the direction of the land, came 



ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 8T 

very near being lost. The error, however, was discovered before the 
steamer was out of sight, and corrected immediately. Up to eight o'clock 
that evening no change had taken place in the weather ; and we began 
to lose all hope of the fog clearing away that night. About nine o'clock, 
however, we caught faint glimpses of the moon through the murky at- 
mosphere, and in a few minutes more we could see her dimly, as through 
a veil. Slowly the fog began to disappear, and in the course of an hour 
we discerned the ship and propeller lying on our larboard bow, and al3out 
one-fourth of the distance between us and the shore. A light breeze 
sprung up wliich assisted in clearing the atmosphere, and there was every 
indication that we would have fine weather in the morning for the prose- 
cution of our work. At last, after knocking about here for four or five 
days, we hu-'l a favorable prospect of getting away, and we congratulated 
each other on our good fortune. In two days more and with a continu- 
ance of such weather, we would be at Cape North with the end of the 
cable, and ready to start for home. But here, again, we were doomed to 
disappointment and to a longer stay off this bleak and desolate coast. 
The breeze to which we were indebted for clearing away the fog, freshened 
near midnight, and before daybreak blew a perfect gale. Kotwitlistanding 
the state of the weather it was decided to start in the morning, and about 
six o'clock w e accordingly weighed anchor and made ready to tow the 
ship to sea. All this time we were under shelter of the land, and al- 
though it bl'^w with great violence, the waves ran low. Having succeeded, 
after the greatest difficulty, in attaching the Sarah L. Bryant with a 
hawser, we prepared to tow her, but in this we were prevented by another 
obstacle. Il was found, after repeated attempts, impossible to raise her 
anchor ; and, having no other alternative, her captain was obliged to slip 
it, having previously attached a buoy to the chain to mark its location. 
All this time the submarine cal)le held on securely to the ship, although 



88 A T R I P T O N F, W F U N D I, A N D . 

subjected to great straining. In the midst of the intense excitement 
which prevailed on board the steamer, it was rumored that it had given 
way, but it had only disappeared from our view for a few moments, and 
when we looked again, there it was, holding on with a death-like tenacity. 
In the midst of all the trouble it was encouraging to see this ; we felt 
grateful that our labor had not been in vain, and re-assured as to the 
strength it was said to possess. 

We now endeavored to get into a proper position to tow the bark, 
but after several ineffectual attempts, were obliged to give it up in despair. 
Both the steamer and the bark were almost completely at the mercy of 
the elements ; the hawser got under our wheels, and serious apprehensions 
were felt that it would interfere with their action. Fortunately, they 
escaped without damage ; but we had hardly got clear of it when the 
ship was observed drifting down upon us with such rapidity as rendered a 
collision inevitable. From the moment her anchor was slipped she be- 
came unmanageable, and although every effort was made to get her bow 
in a straight line with our stern, it was found impossible to do so. There 
seemed to be some terrible fatality hanging over her, and as she came 
down stern foremost upon our bow, our worst fears were excited for the 
safety of both vessels. The propeller was lying off at a distance of two 
or three hundred yards, but she could render no assistance, and any at- 
tempt she might make would only render the matter more serious. 

The scene on board our steamer was painfully exciting ; every one 
crowded to the larboard side, awaiting the collision with breathless anxiety. 
The captain, as soon as he discovered the imminence of the danger, gave 
orders to reverse the wheels, and we were now moving out of the way of 
the ship, but so slowly that we appeared to make no progress. " Back 
her I back her !" he cried out to the first mate, who passed the order to 
the engineer. " Back her ! why don't you Ijack her ?" roared the captain 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 



89 





J 



"<i^£w«rTi^*|»tf^15S§Ti' 




i5-^' S^iU 












of the Sarah L. Bryant ; but the ships appeared to be drawn together by 
some irresistible attraction, and in a few minutes after the order was given 
they struck. Tlie larboard bow of our steamer came in contact with the 
stern of the bark ; but not with such violence as we anticipated. None 
of our timbers were started, the only damage we received being two slight 
scratches about five feet above the water line, while the bark was unin- 
jured. Our escape appeared almost miraculous, for at one time it seemed 
as if nothing could save us, l)ut now that the fearful suspense was over the 
excitement soon died away. The ladies were not on deck when the acci- 
dent occurred, as they had in compliance with the request of the captain 
retired to the cabin a short time before. They were ignorant of our dan- 
ger, therefore, till it was all over. 

We escaped as we have said, almost by a miracle, a serious catastro- 
phe ; but we were not as yet clear of the bark, and more than once we 
were near coming in contact again. It was found necessary to cut the 
hawser on board the steamship, and to let her take care of herself until we 



90 ATRTPTO NEWFOtlNPLAND. 

could get into a better position. As soon as we parted from her slie 
dropped her remaining anchor, still holding on to the submarine cable, 
and we also came to anchor about the same time. We remained in this 
state for about an hour, when we saw two or three flags or streamers run 
up at half mast on board the bark — a signal of distress. Shortly after 
she unfurled some of her sails, and stood out to sea. She had lost her 
anchor, and to save herself from drifting on the rocks, was obliged to cut 
the submarine caV)le, and stand off from the shore. In a few minutes we 
were after her, and by a series of most skilful mancBuvres attached her to 
our stern by a hawser. When we first approached her, several efforts 
were made to throw a rope over her side, but without success, when our 
captain changed the position of our vessel so as to let her drop under our 
stern, and allow a rope to be flung to one of the men on her bowsprit. 
The rope was caught, the hawser hauled on board, and in less than a quar- 
ter of an hour we had her safely in tow. Four cheers were given to Cap- 
tain Turner, for the skill he displayed in the management of his vessel, 
and they were well deserved. 

During this difficulty the bark lost two of her anchors, and the 
steamer was obliged to part with one of hers, leaving only two between 
both vessels. Both of these belonged to our steamer, but as it was impos- 
sible for her to return near the land without some security, our captain 
was obliged to give her one of his own. 

The 26tli being Sunday we did not move from the Cove, and a 
part of the day was spent in repairing the cable, Avhich broke again soon 
after. It was evident now that the portion which had been laid must be 
abandoned, and that it should be relanded and secured anew to the fasten 
ings in the telegraph house. 




TAKING THE CABLE ASHORE. 




CHAPTER IX. 

'^ an early hour on Monday morning the 27th, the Victoria 
^^^!j>^^c>? took the bark in tow, and brought her within a distance of 
Q^ about six hundred yards from the beach. The cable was then 
placed upon the boats, as described in the preceeding chapter, 
successfully landed, and placed in connection with the batteries. A stiff 
breeze from the northwest however prevented the prosecution of the work, 
and it was deemed advisable to defer it till the next morning. Outside 
the Cove tlie waves ran so high that any attempt to lay the cable would 
endanger the safety of both vessels. That day therefore, we remained at 
anchor, and flattered ourselves with the hope that the -weather would soon 
prove more auspicious. 

The following morning was all that could be desired ; the waves had 



92 ATRIPTONF, WFOUNDLAND. 

subsided to a gentle ripple, there was scarcely a cloud to dim the bright- 
ness of the sun, Cape Ray appeared resplendent in his beams, and every- 
thing seemed to favor the enterprize. As the first dawn of morning tinged 
tlie eastern horizon, the bark raised her anchor and was towed out to 
our steamer, which lay at a distance of half a mile from the beach. In 
less than an hour she was attached to the James Adger with a hawser, 
and the process of laying the cable was commenced in earnest. All our 
delay seemed trifling in view of our certainty of success — for no one enter- 
tained any doubts now of its success, so long as the weather proved favor- 
able. The first two miles of the cable were laid without an accident, but 
just as they were commencing on the third a kink occured in it, and it 
was found necessary to stop the steamer to repair the damage. In the 
course of an hour all was set right and we were under way again ; but 
iu a few minutes more the white flag which had been agreed upon as a 
signal before starting, was displayed, and we were obliged to stop. Mr 
Canning afterwards said, that the speed of the steamer, even at its low?st 
rate, was too fast for the purpose, and that it was almost impossible for his 
men to pay out the cable with sufficient i*apidity. Eight were employed 
in the hold turning out the coils, and eight more in attendance on the 
machinery. The position of those in the hold was one of considerable 
danger, and two or three were severely bruised by the cable as they were 
in the act of uncoiling it. It required their constant vigilance, and great- 
est activity to keep clear of it as it swept up through the hold, for if once 
caught within its folds, the consequences would have been serious, if not 
fatal. To avoid this, they stood on the outside of the coil, raising it up 
and passing it out at the rate of two, and sometimes, three miles an hour. 
Several kinks occured up to twelve o'clock on Tuesday night, and it 
was rejiorted on board of our steamer at one time that the cable had 
parted. This report, however, was found to I)o incorrect, and it was ascer- 



A T K 1 1' T O N E W K U N 1) I, A N . 93 

tained that it only required splicing, and that it had to be cut to splice it 
successfully. This was a tedious task, and took till T o'clock the follow- 
ing raoruing to accomplish. From this till four in the afternoon they had 
very few sto^^pages — the machinery worked admirably — and although our 
steamer was still somewhat too fast, the cable was paid out with less difB- 
culty than had been experienced before. Up to this time they had to pay 
it out from the small coil in the bow of the vessel, but the work was not 
so arduous when they reached the larger one, which lay in the main hold. 
The kinks, therefore, became less frequent ; and as we were now within 
sight of St. Paul's, which was about fourteen miles distant, we felt elated 
at the prospect of landing it there in a few hours more. We were, it is 
true, somewhat discouraged by a break taking place in two of the three 
copper wires, one only having remained perfect. Still, strong hopes were 
entertained that when once landed, all the wires would be in good work- 
ing order. Forty miles of the cable had been paid out from the time we 
started, while the actual distance traversed did not exceed thirty-two at 
the utmost. It was, therefore, considered advisable to land it at the island 
of St. Paul's, instead of Cape North, as was at first proposed, and to 
make the connection next year. Not more than thirty-three miles of the 
cable remained, and it was on making allowance for the loss on this, that 
Mr. Canning reluctantly concluded to give up the design originally enter- 
tained of running to Cape North. 

At four o'clock the wind, which had been increasing for the last two 
or three hours, blew with such violence as to render it impossible to con- 
tinue the work on board the bark. The sea ran so high that it was only 
at intervals we could discern those on her deck. The sky looked wild and 
threatening, and the waves broke in spray over the decks of both vessels. 
The ocean was covered with a mist that rendered objects, at the distance 
of four or five miles invisible, and St. Paul's Island could no longer be seen 



94 A T R I P T N E W K O U X D L A X n . 

To render our position still more critical another kink occurred in the 
cable, and both vessels were compelled to lay to. They made several at- 
tempts to repair the damage, but all was useless, the bark rolled with such 
violence that the men could not work, and it was with the greatest diffi- 
culty they could even stand on the deck. Every eye was now fixed on 
Mr. Canning, and they all waited with feverish anxiety for him to give 
the order to cut the cable. They had for more than an hour abandoned 
all hope of being able to land it, and their fears were aroused for their 
own safety and that of the vessel. But Mr. Canning was unwilling to 
give the word, still hoping, even against hope, that the gale would abate, 
and that before morning he would be able to resume work. Although 
both vessels were holding on by the cable, it showed no sign of parting, 
and would doubtless have remained whole to the end, had it been con- 
sidered prudent to hold on by it. It was at this juncture that its strength 
was tested, and successfully proved. We had heard that it was capable 
of holding a seventy-four in a gale of wind, but it seemed hardly possible 
that even a rope of iron wire, not much more than an inch in diameter, 
could hold two vessels under such circumstances. 

When Mr. Canning refused to cut the cable, and there appeared to 
be no prospect of the gale abating, the captain of the bark, Mr. Pous- 
land, told him he would have to give the order, as the safety of his ship, 
was now endangered. 

" Mr. Canning," said he, " I shall be obliged to cut the cable." 

" You can do as you please," said Mr. C. in reply, for he would per- 
sist no longer in his attempts to save it, particularly as it had now become 
a matter of life and death. The next minute the cable was cut, the white 
flag which liad been displayed on the bow for the last two hours was 
lowered, and we were once more in motion with the bark in tow. 

On board our steamer the paying out of the cal)le was regarded with 



A TRIP TO N E AV F U N D r. A N D . 



95 




SARAH L. BRYANT AND JAMES ADGER LEAVING CAPE RAY. 



the greatest interest, from the moment we started from Cape Ray Cove. 
A watch of two hours was organized among the company, to be kept up 
till we reached the place of destination. Two persons were appointed 
on each Avatch, whose duty it was to attend to the signals on the bark, 
and to stop our steamer when required. During the day time, the chief 
engineer, Mr. Scott, assisted in this part of the work, and the passengers 
will never forget the feelings with which they heard him call out to the 
luan at the engine to " Stop her," or the relief they felt when he gave the 
word to " Hook her on, and let her slew." We dreaded the appearance 
of the white flag, for it was an indication that something was wrong on 
board the bark, and when it was lowered it seemed as if an oppressive 



96 A T R I P T N K VV F O U N D L A N D . 

weight had been removed from our minds. Bat when the gale came on, 
and the lives of all on board the Sarah L. Bryant, appeared to be in im- 
minent danger, the interest became painfully intense. Although not more 
than five hundred feet from us, we could only see those on her deck at 
brief intervals. She plunged violently, and as she rose at times on the 
crest of the waves, we could see at least one half of her keel. For two 
long hours we watched her tugging at the cable, anticipating with 
impatience the word to cut it ; but still she held on, and there seemed to 
be no intention on the part of those in command to give the order. At 
last the white flag disappeared, after an hour of painful suspense, and we 
soon perceived that the cable had been cut. The order was immediately 
given to our engineer to go ahead, but as there was some danger of the 
hawser breaking, our steamer was not put under full headway. At one 
time we were ourselves in a most critical condition, and were laboring 
heavily in the trough of the sea. It was only for a few minutes, however : 
our steamer was placed head to the waves, and we were soon out of dan- 
ger. We now made as direct as possible for Sydney, going at the rate 
of from two and a half to three miles an hour, and expecting to reach that 
port on Thursday. 

The evening previous to the day on which the cable was cut the 
British war steamer Argus, Captain Purvis, which had been visible for the 
last two hours, came alongside the propeller, and was spoken by Captain 
Sluyter. Orders had been received by Admiral Fanshawe of the North 
American station, from the British Board of Admiralty, to render any 
assistance in his power to the vessels employed in laying the cable. The 
order was transmitted to Capt. Purvis, who immediately set out from 
Halifax, but unfortunately arrived too late for the purpose. He asked 
Capt. Sluyter if he required any assistance. 




■■■i'll'''"' 

ml llil: 



l|l!f:sv 



98 ATRIPTO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

" Are you in want of assistance ?" lie in((uired, wlu;u the propeller 
came within speaking distance. 

•' No," was the reply. 

" Are you short of coal ?" 

" Yes, rather." 

" Is the other steamer short of coal also ?" he again asked. 

" Yes, we are both short." 

" Then I shall lie by you all night, and if you should need assistance 
you shall have it." 

True to his word. Captain Purvis remained by us, and as we saw the 
green and red lights of his steamer gleamiiig through the darkness of that 
long and weary night, we enjoyed a feeling of security for those on board 
the bark we had not felt for hours before. 

About seven o'clock on Thursday morning, the Argus came along- 
side again, and we observed one of her men holding a black board on her 
paddle box, having the following inscribed in large letters upon it : — 

CAN WE RENDER YOU ANY ASSISTANCE ? 

Our captain shook his head in reply, but the Englishman was not 
satisfied with this, and taking a short turn, came back and again displayed 
his black board, with tlie following words : — 

ANSWER YES, OR NO ! AS I AM ON MY PASSAGE. 

This was definite enough and required an explicit answer, which was 
given promptly. A piece of chalk was produced, and the significant 
monosyllable " No." written in gigantic characters on the side of our 
smoke stack. This was sufficient, and in a few minutes more the Argus 
left us ; but long after she disappeared beyond the horizon we could trace 
her course by the black line of smoke which she left along the sky. 




EN'CAMPMENT OK MIC-.MAC INDIANS. 




CHAPTER X. 

] were now, as we have said, on our way to Sydney, which 
cJ* was aljout seventy miles distant. On Thursday morning the 
gale abated considerably, and about three o'clock the sea had 
become settled enough to allow a boat to be sent from the 
bark. Four of our company, Mr. Canning, and five of the steamer's 
crew, came in her, and as they jumped upon deck were received with a 
welcome that came from the very depths of our hearts. Mr. Canning 
was conducted to the fore cabin by Mr. Field, where Ave were all assem- 
bled, and where he was greeted with three enthusiastic cheers. It was a 
gratifying assurance, after all his labor and anxiety, that his services were 
appreciated, and that, although the attempt to lay the cable had proved a 
failure, he had done all that human energy could accomplish, and the fail- 
ure was in no degree attributable to any neglect or want of proper pre- 
caution on his part. It was a matter entirely beyond his power, or that 



100 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 

of any other man ; he hoped to the last, and only yielded when Captain 
Pousland decided that the safety of all in the bai'k demanded the sacrifice 
of the cable. His appearance and that of his associates once more in our 
midst was a glad sight to ns all, for we entertained the most serious appre- 
hensions for their safety. If the hawser, which was the only connection 
between the vessels, had parted during the gale, we would have found it a 
dangerous task to take her in tow again. To its great strength, therefore, 
we were in no small degree indebted for the safety of our friends. 

On Thursday afternoon about four o'clock, we took a pilot on board, 
and an hour after we were safely anchored opposite the coal wharf of 
North Sidney. Our stay here was much longer than we anticipated, but 
we made the best use of our time, and before our departure had formed 
numerous acquaintances and were tolerably well posted up in the character 
of the place and its people. 

Sidney has a population of about five thousand persons, and is one 
of the most flourishing towns of its size in the British Colonies. It is the 
great coal depot of Cape Breton, and carries on an extensive commerce 
with Boston. The principal working coal mine, which is three miles from 
the port, employs about two hundred men and from thirty to forty horses, 
Tlie coal is raised through a perpendicular shaft three hundred and sixty 
feet in depth, and the mine is ventilated by an immense furnace. The 
daily product is from six to seven hundred tons, which are transported 
over a railroad to the head of a self acting inclined plane, from which it 
is delivered by means of a schute into vessels. All our passengers with a 
very few exceptions went to the coal mines and some of them brought 
away several curious fossil remains in remembrance of their visit. 

The town of South Sidney is situated on the other side of the bay, 
and is distant from North Sidney five miles by water, and by land about 
thirteen. Constant communication is kept up by a little steamboat which 



A TRIP TO NK WFOUKDLAND. 101 

runs three times a day between North and South Sydney. While here, we 
visited an encampment of Mic-mac Indians who had pitched their tents, or 
wigwams, on a hill overlooking the harbor. They numbered about one 
hundred, and lived chiefly by making baskets and Indian ornaments for 
which there was an extensive demand among our passengers. 

The whole encampment of men, women and children were kept con- 
stantly employed during our visit ; and before we left our berths, were 
full of baskets of all sizes and shapes, canoes, bows and arrows, mocassins, 
caps and other articles of Indian handicraft. The women performed the 
greater part of this kind of work, while the men were generally employed 
as laborers in the town. In their dealings with us we found them scrupu- 
lously honest and willing and ready to do whatever work we required of 
them. Some of the women were really beautiful, judged by the Indian 
type of beauty ; but they had a milder expression than is generally found 
in the Indian countenance. They were in a perfectly civilized state, 
although judging from the condition in which they lived, their knowledge 
of the comforts and luxuries of civilized life was very limited. Yet though 
in a state of comparative poverty, and sometimes in actual want of the 
necessaries of life for two or three days at a time, they would not change 
positions with the wealthiest denizen of the Fifth Avenue. Our visit to 
their encampment created quite a commotion among them, and we proved 
such good customers that our departure was regarded with a general feel- 
ing of regret. 

" You no go 'way soon," said one to us, the day before our depart- 
ure. " We make much baskets for you — you no go 'way for long time." 
Notwithstanding their pressing invitations to stay " long time," and the 
strong inducements they held out of making " much baskets," it must be 
confessed we were anxious to get away and see friends and home agaia 



102 A T U I 1' T ( I \ K W F O U N D I, A N D . 

We began to feel home sick, and the hist few days of stormy weathei' did 
not as may well be supposed, lessen the feeling. 

The Sarah L. Bryant was left at Sydney where the remaining thirty 
three miles of the cable were taken ashore, and the propeller Victoria 
took her departure for St. Johns at an early hour on Sunday morning, 
September 2d. A few hours later we started for home, and after a favor- 
able passage of three days arrived within sight of Long Island, about live 
o'clock on the morning of the 5th. Our })ilot, Mr. Thomas Vail, who 
came with us from New York, now took cliarge of our steamer, whicii 
arrived safely at pier Xo. 4, North River, on Wednesday, September 5th. 

The evening before our arrival in New York there was a pleasant 
reunion of tlie whole company in the after cabin. It had been announced 
that morning that we were to have a fancy dress ball, and that all who 
attended with the intention of taking part in the dancing must appear in 
costume. The affair was got up by the ladies, and as every one was in- 
vited, every one of course was present. Jem Bags made his appearance, 
and in the fanciest of fancy costumes. Then there was Ophelia, a merry, 
laughing sprightly Ophelia too, who appeared to be on the best of terms 
with the wandering minstrel. Mother Hubbard danced with Mo-che-ta- 
boo, one of the great chiefs of the Whiskee-Friskees— and little Red 
Riding Hood, personated by one of our young friends, was protected from 
the frequent attacks of an imaginary wolf by the blackest of Jim Crows. 
There were kings and nobles who fraternized with Democrats and Red 
Republicans of the most radical stamp. Ancients and moderns leaped the 
wide gulf of centuries to dance the Polka and Schottische together. 
Richard Coeur de Lion took snufF with William Penn, and one of the Pil- 
grim fathers, with the most utter disregard of all blue laws, went through 
a cotillon with a grace that would have done credit to any dancing-master. 
It was a grand amalgamation in which the past and tlie present were 



A TRIP TO NEWFOUNnLAND. 103 

blended together in the most pleasing hnrmony, and opposite characters 
associated with each other on the most friendly terms. It was late that 
night before our fancy dress ball broke up and all retired to rest. The 
next morning we were all on deck at an early hour and looking with earn- 
est eyes on the low coast of Long Island which was gradually rising l^efore 
our view like a new creation in the midst of the ocean. In a few hours 
more we would be home, and never did hours appear longer than those. 

While off Sandy Hook, a meeting of the passengers was held in the 
after cabin, to express their thanks to the New York, Newfoundland and 
London Telegraph Company, for the many courtesies they had received 
at their hands during the excursion. Rev. Dr. Sherwood presided, and 
Dr. Ij. a. Sayres ofiiciated as secretary. On motion, a committee of five 
was appointed to draw up a series of resolutions expressive of the feelings 
of the meeting. Tiie connnittee reported the following, which were unan- 
imously adopted : — 

Besolved, That our warmest thanks are due to the New York Xew- 
foundland and London Telegraph Company, and especially to their repre- 
sentatives, Peter Cooper, Esq., and Cyrus W. Field, Esq., for the munifi- 
cent hospitality to wliich we are indebted for the delightful and interest- 
ing voyage which is now drawing to a close — a voyage whicli has made us 
acquainted with places little known, enriched our minds with a store of 
valuable recollections, and cheered us with the warmth of social inter- 
course. 

Resolved, That while we offer our heartfelt sympathy to the Tele- 
graph Company for the unsuccessful issue of their attempt to lay the sub- 
marine cable between Newfoundland and Cape Breton, on account of un- 
favoraljle weather and unforeseen difficulties, we have entire faith that the 
untiring energy and perseverance which have characterized their labors 
hitherto, will ensure their final triumph and enable them to condiu-t to its 
speedy fulfilment one of the grandest enterprizes of the present day. 



104 A TRIP TO NEWKOTINDLAND. 

Resolved, That we tender our thanks to Capt. Turner and the officers 
of the steamer James Adger for their courtesy and attention on the 
voyage. Signed by the committee. 

Wm. M. Swaim. Lewis A. Sayre. 

John Mullaly. Bayard Taylor. 

J. M. Sherwood. James S. Sluyter. 

On the adoption of the foregoing, Mr. Cooper and Mr. Field returned 
their thanks, on behalf of the company ; after which an impressive prayer 
was made by Rev. Dr. Field. The meeting then adjourned. 

We cannot allow this opportunity to pass without returning our sin- 
cere thanks to Mr. Cooper, Mr. Field, Captain Turner, the purser of the 
steamer, Mr. Tisdale, and the other officers of the vessel, for their courtesy 
and kindness towards us on every occasion. 

The excursion, although it failed in its principal object — the laying, 
of the submarine cable between Newfoundland and Cape Breton — yet, as 
a pleasure trip, was most successful. Next year, with the advantage of 
the experience which the company have gained, they will, it Ls to be hoped, 
be enabled to accomplish the great enterprize in which they have em- 
liarked. It is one in which not only the United States, but the whole 
world, are deeply interested — for upon its success depends that of the 
Transatlantic Telegraph by which the Union of the Old and New Worlds 
is to be accomplished. That it may succeed, should be the earnest desire 
of all. 




APPENDIX. 

^^, "M June 1851, Mr. H. B. Tebbetts of the City of New York associated 
with him several influential gentlemen for the purpose of organizing a 
company to build steamers of a large size, to run between the ports of 
New York and Galway, Ireland. These ships were to be specially adapt- 
ed to perform the mail service between the two continents, and to accom- 
modate the large emigrant travel from Ireland to the United States. 

In originating this enterprize, Mr. Tebbett's conceived the idea of the New- 
foundland telegraph which 's at present so prominently Ijefore the public. Confi- 
dent of the practicability of the project, he entered into a correspondence with 
different members of the Government of Newfoundland in regard to the subject, 
and with the view of making St. Johns a port of call for the steamers to and 
from Galway. He was assured that his plan was perfectly feasible and that the 
Government would make liberal grants and concessions to secure its accomplish- 
ment. 

Soon after, the Government ordered a survey to be made, and on its comple- 
tion sent the Engineer with his report and a letter of introduction from Mr. S. G. 
Archibald, dated December 17, 1851, to Mr. Tebbetts. The introduction resulted 
in the offer of the liberal sum of twenty thousand dollars by Mr. Tebbetts to the 
Engineer on condition, that he would return and procure such a charter from the 
Government as he desired. The offer was accepted, the Engineer returned and 
succeeded in procuring the required charter which was granted in March 1852, and 
under which Mr. Tebbetts organized an association entitled, " The Newfoundland 
Electric Telegraph Company." 

When Mr. Tebbetts first conceived the project it was his design to run small 
steamers across the Gulf of St. Lawrence between Cape Eay and Cape North, 
the proposed termini of the land lines in Newfoundland and Cape Breton. This 
was the only means of communication, as up to this period every attempt to manu- 
facture a submarine cable had been attended with a signal failure. Shortly after. 



106 APPFVDIX. 

however, it was tliscovered that liy means of gutta perclia, the conductiug wires 
could be completely insulated, and in less than a year the first cable was laid 
between France and England a distance, of twenty-six miles. This great achieve- 
ment was performed in September, 1851. 

The success of this cable led to the abandonment of the plan of running 
steamers between Cape North and Cape Ray, and to a change in the proposed 
route of the line. It was decided that the line should run from New Brunswick 
to Prince Edward's Island and thence to Newfoundland. The company accord- 
ingly ordered a submarine cable to be made, which was successfully laid down in 
September 1852, between New Brunswick and Prince Edward's Island — a distance 
of ten miles. This was the first laid on this side of the Atlantic. 

After expending about one hundred thousand dollars in the prosecution of 
the work, numerous embarrassments arose and the company was eventually obliged 
to suspend payment. Through the exertions of Mr. Tebbetts, however, the gentle- 
men now engaged in the enterprize were induced to take hold of it, and they did 
so with an alacrity which showed their confidence in its ultimate success. Its 
practicability had been satisfactorily proved and it only required men possessing 
the means and the energy to carry it to a successful completion. The property 
of the old company was purchased by the new. Previous to the dissolution ot 
the " Newfoundland Electric Telegrajih Companj','' the charter w-as surrendered 
to the Government and the gentlemen who had now the control and management 
of the enterprize proceeded at once with due diligence and energy to the accom- 
plishment of the great work which they had undertaken. 

'J'he new association was organized under the title of the " New York, New- 
foundland and London Telegraph Company," and is composed of the following 
gentlemen : — 

directors. 
Peter Cooper, Cyrus W. Field, 

MosES Taylor, Marshall O. Roberts, 

Chandler White, 
President, » - - - Peter Cooper. 

Vice President, - - - Chandler White, 

Treasurer, - - - Moses Taylor, 

Electrician, - - - Samuel F. B. Morse. 

These gentlemen having carefully weighed and considered the difficulties by 
which the enterprize was beset, applied to the Newfoundland Government for a 
new chnrter in which tliey obtained some additions to llie privileges and grants 



APPENDIX. 101 

conlerrcd in that procured by the old company. They were given the exclusive 
privilege for lit'ty years, which was an increase of twenty over the former grant, 
of running a telegraph across the Island, and through any of the adjacent waters. 
In addition to this the government, realizing the great advantage such a work 
would be in opening up the country and developing its resources, made them a 
pre-sent of fifty square miles of land, which was twenty more than they gave to the 
company organized by Mr. Tebbetts. Their liberality, however, did not stop here; 
they also as an encouragement to the enterprize appropriated live thousand pounds 
sterling, towards the construction of a bridle path across the island, a work indis- 
pensable for the repair and regulation of the telegraph. The land was granted 
with the privilege of selecting it in any part of the country, and the interest on 
fifty thousand pounds sterling guaranteed to the company for twenty years. In 
addition to all this fifty miles are to be given when the great Transatlantic Tele- 
graph is laid. 

The company having now obtained all they had asked for, proceeded ener- 
getically to work and, as a preliminary step made a contract with Professor Morse, 
by which they secured the use of his patents and all renewals. An engineer and 
assistants were engaged for the construction of the land telegraph across the island 
from St. Johns to Cape Ray, and about six hundred men having been employed 
operations were immediately commenced. The route over which it was proposed 
to run the line is almost a, wilderness and presents, one would suppose, an insuper- 
able obstacle in the way of the enterprize ; but the men who had undertaken 
it were not to be deterred by difficulties and they went to work with an energy 
that ensures success. While they had operatives employed in clearing the wilder- 
ness and constructing their line, they had others engaged in the selection and 
t'xjiloration of the land granted by the Government. The services of three miner- 
alogists were secured and their investigations resulted in the discovery of two coal 
mines, one lead mine, and one of copper, besides valuable tracts of ship timber and 
.several quarries of alabaster and slate. The discovery of tlie.se, however, is only 
one of the many benefits which it is expected the new telegraph will confer upon 
Ncwioundlaud. The length of the route which will be traversed by the line of 
the new^ company is seven hundred miles, and extends from St. Johns to Cape Tor- 
mentine. Commencing at this cape, it runs through the Straits of Northumber- 
land to Prince Edward's Island, a distance of ten miles and a half ; thence to 
Cape East, thence to Cape Breton, and thence to St. Johns. A one wire cable 
ten miles long has, already, as we have stated, been laid between New Brunswick 
and Prince Edward's Island. 



108 A 1' P K N I) I X. 

The company have entered into an agreement with the companies whose lines 
run from New York to Xew Brunswiclc, through Boston and Maine. But as the 
great objects, to the accomplishment of which all these operations may be regard- 
ed as merely preliminary, could not be undertaken without the assistance of some 
telegraph company in Europe, they deputed one of their number to visit England, 
for the purpose of securing the co-operation of one of the principal companies 
there. The same success which attended them in their previous negotiations, fol- 
lowed them here. A contract was made with the " Transatlantic Telegraph Com- 
pany," composed of French and English capitalists, by which that company agreed 
to construct and lay down at their own expense and risk, a submarine cable ex- 
tending across the Atlantic to Newfoundland. 

This line is to be not only completed according to the terms of the agree- 
ment by the 22d of January 1858, but in successful operation. The contract also 
binds the two companies, that is the American and p]uropean to operate in connec- 
tion with each other to the exclusion of all other lines for the period of fifty years. 
In the meantime it is intended to make St. Johns a port of call for the steamers pass- 
ing between the two continents, by which means we can obtain news at least three 
days earlier than we receive it at present. Among the many inducements which 
this route presents to steamers there is one which cannot be overlooked : by stop- 
ping at St. Johns a very considerable portion of the space which is taken up by 
coal can be devoted to freight, as a sufficient supply of i'uel can be obtained there 
in a few hours. This fact alone will have great weight with the mercantile com- 
munity. 



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